Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Oxygen for fish

Collapse
X
Collapse
  •  

  • Oxygen for fish

    Oxygen in your Aquarium

    Unless you are pumping pure Oxygen into you aquarium, the Aquarium is limited to the amount of O2 it can get from the air. Air is 78% Nitrogen, 21% Oxygen 1% Argon, .03% CO2 and a lot of trace elements. The maximum amount of Oxygen that your aquarium water can hold is relative to water temperature and salinity. From a high of 9 ppm (mg/l) at 64f for fresh water to a low of 6 ppm at 85f for saltwater. From this maximum amount you can add for plants during day light but subtract for plants at night. Early morning O2 levels are usually the lowest of the day. Also delete for all the fish in your tank. Delete for Snails & bacteria that break down organic wastes.
    All this causes the O2 level at the bottom of your aquarium to be much lower than at the top where the water picks up O2 from the air.

    Five ppm O2 is good for your fish, more is better.
    Four ppm O2 will cause stress. (fish hovering at surface gasping for air)
    Two ppm O2 will cause death.

    To help raise the O2 level in you aquarium closer to it’s maximum you can do the following.

    Remove some of the fish.
    Remove some of the snails.
    Remove some of the organic wastes (water Changes).
    Leave the light on 24/7.
    Circulate the water so that the water on the bottom comes into contact with air. (wet dry filters splash water, air stones lift water & power heads circulate water)

    • Mzungu
      #5
      Mzungu commented
      Editing a comment
      I think 76-78F is good. Even if they're a little cold, at least they've got plenty of oxygen in their water.

      I really do think that's an okay temp. Especially with what you were saying earlier about the lack of heat in your house. Glad the temp's staying up there!

    • PhishPhreek
      #6
      PhishPhreek commented
      Editing a comment
      Originally posted by imagirlgeek
      OMG! Until just now, I didn't know that bettas needed their water to be 82F. Ours are at around 76 - 78F these days.
      I keep my fish room 82f for 2 reasons, bettas spawn better at 82f and babies grow faster.... Bigger is better at the fish show

    • imagirlgeek
      #7
      imagirlgeek commented
      Editing a comment
      Originally posted by Mzungu
      I think 76-78F is good. Even if they're a little cold, at least they've got plenty of oxygen in their water.

      I really do think that's an okay temp. Especially with what you were saying earlier about the lack of heat in your house. Glad the temp's staying up there!
      You wanna know what I did to take care of my cold betta issue? Using the info PP posted in my thread about it, I decided to use something I already had around the house. Heating pads. I have 2 heating pads set on Low, side by side, with a towel on top of them. Then the betta bowls are lined up on them. Piece of cake!
    Posting comments is disabled.

Latest Articles

Collapse

  • Internal Parasites and Your Puffer - What to watch for
    by edmlfc
    This is my experience with IP's (internal parasites) and puffers. 99% of all puffers are wild caught. There are very few puffers that will breed in captivity. With that being said you "must" treat any puffer you purchase for IP's.

    If you are thinking about buying a puffer make sure you have
    a fully cycled tank. Ammonia and Nitrites are highly toxic to puffers. Do your research before you buy. What size tank does my
    puffer need, is the puffer I want freshwater or brackish water?...
    09-26-2010, 02:50 PM
  • Camallanus worms
    by Zulaab
    This is a first hand account of how one of our members (Zulaab) successfully killed Camallanus worms using Fenbendazole (sold as Safeguard Canine Dewormer).


    First, make sure your fish is willing to eat. If not, get it used to bloodworms (you will need bloodworms to feed the fish in the end) -- I made the mistake of first feeding NLS to the fish and it would take a while for them to eat it. They ate the bloodworms quickly and had no problem stuffing themselves with it. ...
    08-31-2010, 09:58 AM
  • Puffer Dentistry for small puffers
    by imagirlgeek
    Last night I moved all the South American Puffers from one tank to another. I took the opportunity to clip their teeth since I had them out of the tank anyway. I finally got the ratio of MS-222 to water so that the puffer goes under in about a minute. All the times prior to last night, it took about 10 minutes, so I wanted to document and share this info.
    ...
    05-20-2010, 06:48 PM
  • Saprolegnia
    by imagirlgeek
    Type of Disease: Fungal Disease
    Disease Name: Saprolegnia
    Additional Names: True Fungus, Water Mold

    General Information:
    If you've ever seen uneaten fish food in your tank covered in white, cottony stuff, you've seen Saprolegnia in action.
    ...
    05-08-2010, 01:56 AM
  • Lymphocystis disease
    by imagirlgeek
    Type of Disease: Viral Disease
    Disease Name:
    Lymphocystis
    Additional Names:
    Cauliflower Disease ...
    03-28-2010, 11:36 PM
  • Signs of vitamin deficiency in fish
    by imagirlgeek
    Something we don't hear about often, but is important is the need for adequate vitamins delivered to your fish via either food or added to the water column. Depletion of the body storage of any single vitamin can be responsible for specific or general disease signs. ...
    03-22-2010, 02:29 PM
Working...
X