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380G For Sale $3000 Acrylic tank & stand 300G Petrochromis Trewavasae and Tropheus mpimbwe Red Cheek & Duboisi 180G For Sale $1,100 Oceanic Cherry with Stand, T5HO Lights, (2) Eheim 2262 150G Tropheus Annectens Kekese & Ikola
Delock -- depending on which NLS you looking at.
NLS Cichlid formula = 34% protein
NLS Grow = 50% protein
I am currently feeding NLS with a every other day load of TetraVeggies for all of my cichlids who would like to have some Spirulina in their diet.
I am feeding Tetra TetraVeggie (has 45% protein) and I am finishing up my Tetra Cichlid Crisps... trying to figure out which one is better..
I am really thinking the TetraVeggie is having an impact on the Tropheus Dubs because they are starting to grow and look super full all the time :)
What fish do Jesper have 180 WC T. Moorii Chilambo +1 Petro trewavasae.
110 Cyps, WC Xeno Spilopterus Kipili WC/F1/F2 T. sp red Kiku
58 S. Decorus "The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." -Margaret Thatcher
I have it on good record that the "puppy chow is 52% protein. Just like NLS, there is some variation but it actually does push past NLS.
The breakdown for the "chow" is as follows.
First number is guaranteed and second number is Typical.
I can also tell you info on the various sized granules if anyone is interested.
I was feeding my trophs a 50/50 mix of Dainichi color FX/Dainichi veggie FX, "puppy chow" and about 3-4 crunched up Omega one sinking Algae wafers.
Interestingly, my single Petrochromis T. that lived with them would avoid most of the other food and home in on the algae wafers. Then he picked at a few dainchi one day and now he refuses to eat anything but the dainichi. I blame it on the cyclop-eeze they bake into the outer coating of their pellets.
As for maximizing the color of your fish, those that are keeping their fish out under natural sunlight are going to have the best results of anybody. We must all keep in mind that pigmentation is affected by hormones, melanocyte and melanin. Basic biology teaches us that those hormones are regulated by light intensity and spectrum. In humans they are what give us a nice tan when we expose to sunlight. In the aquarium industry, some less than moral individuals add hormones to food or water which induces fish to show colors they normally wouldn't at abnormally intense levels. However, we as hobbyists can get better and more intense colors out of our fish by trying to get our lighting in line with nature. Bumping up the intensity and getting the spectrum closer to outdoor sunlight is the best thing for your fish.
I witnessed this in jewel cichlids. When bred indoors the fish looked nice, then the batch was moved outdoors and the fish colors exploded. Unfortunately once those fish were moved back indoors, their color faded out again. Melanin and Melanocyte at work.
Therefore, if you really want to witness the true beauty and intensity of your fish, we would be keeping them under powerful lighting that is as close to natural sunlight as possible. I plan on keeping my next batch of trophs under metal halides.
So start trolling Marshreef and see if you can pick up some used halides and put them under 10,000K bulbs. I wouldn't go overboard and put them under any 400W halides, unless your tank is quite deep, but some 150W or 250W halides would benefit them quite a bit. Plus the ripple lines will look great on the white sand, and then you can see why the fry are striped the way they are! For camouflage in those sun ripples.
Thanks for the product information. Did you get the analysis on the CHOW from Alex or is it on the packaging?
The direct sunlight is the absolute best. I have seen Tropheus in Direct Sunlight before and they are amazing. One of the most sought after Tropheus are the Golden Kushangaza, and Golden Kalambo. In reports I've read, the exporter had them in direct sunlight and they were amazing. Then as they entered into aquarium enviroments the color faded badly.
Thanks,
Geoff
380G For Sale $3000 Acrylic tank & stand 300G Petrochromis Trewavasae and Tropheus mpimbwe Red Cheek & Duboisi 180G For Sale $1,100 Oceanic Cherry with Stand, T5HO Lights, (2) Eheim 2262 150G Tropheus Annectens Kekese & Ikola
As for the puppy chow....hopefully I can set up this other tank soon and I will be pulling the recent fry from my Ilangi tank as lab rats for this experiment. I plan on doing a small supplement of the "puppy chow" and will gradually increase the % to about 70% within a month or so. The tank will be getting 2x 50% water change weekly like the other tanks.
Always keep in mind that with higher protein more wastes is produced. So be sure to take care of your waterchanges.
380G For Sale $3000 Acrylic tank & stand 300G Petrochromis Trewavasae and Tropheus mpimbwe Red Cheek & Duboisi 180G For Sale $1,100 Oceanic Cherry with Stand, T5HO Lights, (2) Eheim 2262 150G Tropheus Annectens Kekese & Ikola
I do about 60% on my tanks twice a week already so it won't be too much of a hassle to knock out another tank and I will probably go barebottom for the fry tank to limit waste.
As for the experiment feeding straight "CHOW" to troph fry, I did this with about 80-100 baby chimba in a 55.
I just threw pinches in the tank of 100% CHOW 4-5 times a day and those suckers grew FAST. I did have to water change the tank every 2-3 days otherwise things started to look really hazy and gross but it was worth it.
I had two Aquaclear 500's running on the tank and those had to have their sponges cleaned almost every other day.
In fact, J-WS6 got some of those experimented upon Chimbas, sent down from Oregon, and then sold them to honkzz who then sold them to txfatcat.
I did 90% water changes on the fry tank every 2-3 days.
Then again, I did 90% water changes on the 125 with the WC Adults in it once a week to twice a week, depending on how much time a had, but def. did a min 90% once a week on them.
The wet dry also had to be siphoned out and cleaned every week and a half.
I may have been feeding those fish alot, but boy did they breed.
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