90g Malawi (improved! Lol)

[Complexity]

Here's some good info on Green Water. Do a page search for the term as it's about halfway down the page. They offer a number of ways to fix it, but from my experience of reading numerous threads of people who have experienced it with planted tanks, most methods do not work (other than using a UV Sterilizer which clear it up in 1-2 days). Of course, if you can figure out what may have caused it based on the info on this page I'm linking, then you might be able to help the situation by reversing the conditions that caused it.

http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/

The best thing I can suggest is that you ensure that your tank is clean by vacuuming up detritus and any dead plant material. Make sure your filters are't clogged and change out the pads so they work most efficiently. Test your water to ensure you aren't experiencing a spike in ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates, and if you are, take appropriate steps to correct the problem. You can add phosphate remover pads to your canister filter which may help. Adding fast growing plants, such as hornwart, can help as well.

Or you can just wait it out. The good news is that it is rare for green water to reappear again later unless you make big changes to your tank. It's more of a new tank symptom due to an imbalance of nutrients in the water. The green water is a type of algae that is taking up the nutrients. Once the water settles down, the green water just goes away. Make sure to clean out your filters so the dead leftover doesn't clog them.

Yucky stuff, isn't it.

[barrettsline]

Well there ya go, I don't remember ever having this problem in my planted tank back in the day. But again on this topic of planted aquariums im in the dark. Thus my hand off to complexity. Bro keep us updated on what you do and how it cleans up!


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=29.256798,-95.212669

[Complexity]

Thank you! Made my day I really didn't want to have to dose anything - and I didn't want to add any chemicals if I didn't have to. Should I adjust my lighting schedule at all?


Thanks again!

When it comes to algae, it's always helpful to reduce the lighting. Some suggest "black outs" which include covering the aquarium so that absolutely no light enters it. My personal preference is to not take such extreme measures because the ultimate goal is to get the aquarium to become balanced, and there's always an issue of the aquarium having to readjust to light once the black out period is over.

You can reduce your photoperiod while you're dealing with the green water, and then slowly add on an hour each week until you get the photoperiod you want. If you begin having algae issues, then you might want to consider whether you have too much light on the tank. Personally, I push it to have long photoperiods of 12 hours; although, I'm not completely without algae issues. I just prefer to tackle the algae in other ways than to reduce the photoperiods. I hate it when the lights are out.

How you address the problem is mostly up to you. I've seen some people with lots of patience make it into a journal of posting daily pictures with a big celebration when the green water disappears. Others race out to get a UV Sterilizer (I use them). Others do a mixture of things, such as reducing the lighting.

The most important thing is to ensure that your water parameters are in check and your tank and filters aren't clogged with detritus.

[Complexity]

Well there ya go, I don't remember ever having this problem in my planted tank back in the day.

I think the reason green water is more commonly seen with planted tanks is because of the combination of bright lights and fertilizer dosing. An imbalance of nutrients and lighting, which is common with new planted tank setups, can allow algae to grow quickly. Once that balance is established, most algae issues dissipate.

[barrettsline]

Sounds like alot of good info. Crude, hope this info helps.


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=29.256311,-95.211765

[Crude]

Yeah, my water parameters have been good for the duration of the green water. Filters are all clean, as well.

I'll start by reducing my photoperiod, perhaps to an hour or so a day, but will hold off on covering the tank.

Can I buy a diatom "insert" for a canister? I had a diatom filter for my oldschool Marineland canister, but don't see anything that would work with a Fluval 405 on first glance.

Thanks!

[Crude]

LOTS of good info!

[Complexity]

Can I buy a diatom "insert" for a canister? I had a diatom filter for my oldschool Marineland canister, but don't see anything that would work with a Fluval 405 on first glance.

Unfortunately, I can't answer that. I've never had the need nor are they commonly discussed in the planted tank forums so I know nothing about them.

Sounds like you have things in good shape. It's frustrating, but this will pass and you'll be enjoying your clear water soon.

[Crude]

Ok, I promise I'll try to stop asking questions soon...

Should I go ahead and remove my few tufts of Java? I assume it will die with such a short photoperiod, and would rather it die outside the tank than in

[Complexity]

I'd keep the Java in there and not reduce your lighting so significantly. I was just reading some old posts from the planted forums, and most people who tried blackouts to cure green water (GW) were unsuccessful. The #1 method of choice was to use a uv sterilizer; however, some did use diatom filters with success.

Something else I read about that I had forgotten is that you want to avoid water changes. Obviously, you have to do water changes to maintain good water quality, but the water contains nutrients that encourage the GW so it's best to do only what's necessary.

I'm still looking into whether people have had success with Seachem purigen. If you have any on hand, it won't hurt to use it.

If you'd like to read a bunch of threads about GW, here's plenty of them. There might be some info in there that can you pick out to help your situation.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/search.php?searchid=4973101&pp=25

And no problem on the questions. I'm glad I can be of some help!

[Crude]

I bought Purigen over the weekend to see if it would help. Added it on Saturday, and if anything, its gotten worse

I wouldn't blame the Purigen, more likely just the state of the tank when I introduced it.... too far gone!

[barrettsline]

+1 on the uv sterilizer. This maybe why I don't remember this problem on mine. I bought one that was an in tank sterilizer at petsmart for about 100.00 but I also went for more flow as well. There pricey but effective. That I can say for sure!


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=29.253783,-95.213586

[Complexity]

Yeah, I have the 36w turbo twist uv sterilizers on my big tanks and the 9w on one of my smaller tanks (although it's not being used at the moment). I use them mainly to ensure that the water is free of unwanted pathogens which can be introduced by trading plants with other hobbyists. I've never regretted getting them.

Crude, pick up some phosphate remover (get the white kind) for your canister. It won't be an overnight fix, but it may help. I just recently won a battle over algae in my 90g by targeting the phosphates. My situation was different from yours, but I just did some checking, and it appears GW loves phosphates. Anything you can do to deprive GW of its food, the better.

What part of town do you live? Maybe you can borrow a uv sterilizer from someone close to you?

[Crude]

I'm in the Heights.

I was planning on buying one if things didn't clear up this week, but if anyone wants to lend me a UV sterilizer I wont complain

[Complexity]

If you're willing to drive to Sugar Land to pick up and then deliver back, you can borrow my 9w turbo twist that's not being used at the moment. It might need to be cleaned. I had broken off the hose nipple and just never put it inline again after replacing it so it's just sitting in the tank cabinet. PM me if interested.