I use an argon-halide fortified epsom salt that has the same effect as a expensive "big" UV sterilizer. Does wonders in preventing parasitic problems just like the UV sterilizer you use. Side effect is that my fish poop a lot but that's OK thanks the the Eheim 2262 canisters.
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Hmm... that would only aid in digestion of and purging of any internal bacteria present in the digestive tract. BUT once in the water column it is free to spread and the vicious cycle of being ingested once again.
The amount of salts needed in the water column to disinfect would also be detrimental to the loving freshwater fish we own... and that would be sodium chloride and not magnesium sulfate in most cases.
The UV would strip the water of these living bacteria that are present by killing off what passes through the filter.700g Mini-Monster tank
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Originally posted by myjohnson View PostWow, you have a big tank and you want to go bigger?!
How often do you do water changes?
What percentage of water do you replace?
How long does it take you?
I guess big tanks aren't bad if you do small water changes.
And as for UV. Whatever u feel like doing. Have had my fish for a while with no issues and crystal clear water. No UV here240 and 35 Cichlid tanks
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I guess a lot of precautions go into me getting the fish that go in my tanks. Got to find and stick with sources with known good disease free stock, proper filtration, water temps, maintaining constant levels epsom salt (the non argon-halide fortified variety of course) in the water by replenishing what's removed during water changes, etc., etc., ad nauseum. But I'm preaching to the choir over here. I've never had a recurring parasite/bacteria/microbe issue that warrants spending extra dough on a big UV sterilizer. And like I said, it's just cheaper for me to use meds to treat whatever little thing that pops up, and using carbon and Purigen to remove the meds from the water as well as weekly water changes means my fish are happy, healthy and write home to momma every week.
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So if in the event, you would allow your fish to suffer illness and possible death instead of preventing the problem?
I was hoping for more reasons why a UV isn't necessary or possibly useless in the sense that most bacteria/pathogens are short lived in the water column without a host or how an inefficient sized one does little to no good on any size aquarium since there needs to be a minimum amount of UV to actually kill protozoa and the like. There's also been the argument where too much preventatives actually have caused fish's immune system to weaken once acclimated to UV life since their bodies are use to not having them present.
But a simple cause I don't see the need will suffice.
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I don't run UV, don't even think they are the solution when it comes to green water but that's just my personal opinion/experience.700g Mini-Monster tank
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Thought I already said that jedi master. It was drowned out in a sea if ek juju in all your posts.
Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View PostNo use for a UV sterilizer.
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Originally posted by eklikewhoa View Postbut but... 3x2217s @ 159 = 477gal worth of filtration.
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1 2217 in a 100g of water is just retarded especially for any cichlids because they're such messy eaters.
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Originally posted by aggrofishkeeper View PostI think you took what I said in Cuongs thread and twisted around and now you're just trolling. He has a 150g, which 1 2262 (1 2262 for 100g of water) and a PC300 would be perfect and needed no more.
1 2217 in a 100g of water is just retarded especially for any cichlids because they're such messy eaters.700g Mini-Monster tank
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In the end we all just do wat we feel works best for our own tanks. So long as the fish are in good health and happy. Theres not really a defined right or wrong way to set up a tank.5 gal baby hecqui grow out
7 gal baby compressicps
14 bio cube fry tank, multies-orange leleupi-telmatochromis
4 tank rack- 30 cubes. Shellies, mulities-brevis-telmatochromis-caudopunctaus
100 gal mixed community tank
125 Tropheus black bembas
Tanngankia cichlids what else
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