Sump Filtration...

[SOULJAA]

Okay folks...I have never dealt w/ really any other type of filtration besides canister filters and hob's. So I would like to know the pros and cons for sump systems... How does 1 basically work; is it difficult to troubleshoot; how do you maintain it (i.e. cleaning schedule); pieces of equipment needed for proper functioning; is it better than canister filtration...basically the ups, downs, and in-betweens on sump system filtration...Thanks ya'll........

[PhishPhreek]

First you need to drill an overflow hole in your tank or an overflow box with a flow rate larger than your pump. http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquari...flow_boxes_cpr

Then all the water above that level will fall down into your W/D filter. It falls onto a DRY mechanical filter (sheets of foam or felt) then onto the WET biological filter (bio-balls or ceramic pieces with lots of serface area for bacteria) then into a sump. (sump capacity needs to be bigger than the amount of water that drains out of the tank when the power is off. ) The return pump sends clean water back into the Tank.
Some W/D systems include a Chemical filter (charcoal). Some add plants to the sump to reduce the Nitrates. Some have float valves.

Bad points
this system alows for a lot of evaporation and the water level should be checked daily if you don't have a water line and float valve for level control.
If the mechanical filter plugs up it can overflow onto the floor if you do not have a bypass.
Needs to be small enough to fit in the cabnet under the Tank. Not suitable 12" deep tanks.

Good points
Good filtration
Can be built out of anything that holds water.
Easy to maintain.
The return pump can be diverted for use in water changes.

[SOULJAA]

Thanks Phish!!! Based on your explanation, the bad points greatly outweigh the good. So I'll just stick to filtration by way of canister filters.

[cichlid1409]

I have to disagree. The good far outweighs the bad.

-No daily refilling/checking - I only add water once a week during a water change.
-If the drain becomes plugged yes it could overflow,but in the 3 years i've been running my tank nothing big enough has gotten lodged in my overflow to plug a 1" drain pipe.
-Does need to be small enough to fit under your tank but even 12" wet-drys con be found/made easily enough http://www.marinedepot.com/CPR_CR500_Wet_Dry_Filter_%28Wet_Dry_Only%29_Wet_Dr y_Filter_Units-CPR-CR1311-FIFRWDUO-CR1311-vi.html
- Suitable for any size tank when plumbed correctly, i.e. drilled w/ internal overflow box or diy pvc, hang on back overblow box or diy pvc
- Awesome filtration , you have the ability to push as much GPH through as you wish as long as you have a big enough drain ( im setting up my 125g with 1800GPH through the wet-dry) more GPH means more filtered water per hour.
- GALLONS of biological media, mine holds about 6
-massive aeration of the water
-I clean mine about once a year, other than the obvious filter pad replacement stuff.

[SOULJAA]

Yeah, see the tank will be in a place where it will be on a monthly maintenance schedule. So I don't think the weekly filling will work.
I'm not quite clear on the 12" deep tank b/c that seems like just about any tank (i.e. a standard 55 gal, 75 gal, etc...). Please clear this up for me please. Thanks...

[PhishPhreek]

sorry I should have said 12" wide like a 15, 20, 29 or 55g tank. 75g tanks are 18+ wide so it's fairly easy to put a 12" w/d under them.
the illustration I posted is for a pond filter (sitting above the pond) with a pump on the input and the drain going back to the pond.
If the w/d is below the aquarium its better to use a submersable pump - less plumbing and it's quieter.

[jisatsuguy]

based on my experience, wet dry rocks for freshhwater-very efficient bio wise... as far as evaporation, i kept a milk jug or 2 of water next to the sump to top it off... i helped my buddy setup a hang on back overflow box worked good and maintenance is so easy as stated above... just change the prefilter when its dirty