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De-Chlorinator of Choice--and Why, and then Which Test Kit?

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  • De-Chlorinator of Choice--and Why, and then Which Test Kit?

    Which de-chlorinator do you use--and why? Once you are using that brand of de-chlorinator which tests kits are OK to use with it?

    I got back into the hobby about 2 years ago. I picked up some API brand de-chlorinator because someone had told me that it doesn’t interfere with the API test kit tests i.e. give a false positive. In the course of reading this forum I see a lot of the experienced hobbyists leaning towards Seachem Prime and or Kordon AmQuel+Plus (and or a carbon bottle/snake—which I’ll leave out of this discussion). I recently picked up some Seachem Purigen. As part of the info it warns that some slime coat enhancers may permanently foul the Purigen. I posted a question in one of the recent Purigen threads and got some answers. As part of the directions straight from Purigen, after recharging the Purigen in bleach and rinsing it out, you soak it in a high dose of Prime—so no conflict there. So I went and got a large bottle of Prime as I prepare to delve into the land of “magic beans”. In reading through tunedis’s current tank issues it was mentioned that certain de-chlorinators throw off certain tests. I’m assuming it’s just the ammonia tests? So I’ve done a little peliminary reading here



    “...AmQuel+ is compatible to use with all water quality test kits except for the ammonia test kit that uses Nessler reagents that read in shades of amber or yellow, and the oxygen test kit that uses Winkler reagents. Residual AmQuel+ and its reaction products are incompatible with the Nessler-and Winkler type reagents, resulting in false, high ammonia and low oxygen concentration readings. Ammonia test kits using salicylate-type reagents are appropriate for accurate test results. Any oxygen test kit other than those using Winkler`s method is compatible with AmQuel+.”

    And here http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Prime.html

    “A Nessler based kit will not read ammonia properly if you are using Prime®... it will look "off scale", sort of a muddy brown (incidentally a Nessler kit will not work with any other products similar to Prime®). A salicylate based kit can be used, but with caution. Under the conditions of a salicylate kit the ammonia-Prime complex will be broken down eventually giving a false reading of ammonia (same as with other products like Prime®), so the key with a salicylate kit is to take the reading right away. However, the best solution ;-) is to use our MultiTest: Ammonia™ kit... it uses a gas exchange sensor system which is not affected by the presence of Prime® or other similar products. It also has the added advantage that it can detect the more dangerous free ammonia and distinguish it from total ammonia (which is both the free and ionized forms of ammonia (the ionized form is not toxic)).”

    Which I’m assuming includes my API Freshwater ammonia test which reads from yellow to gradually dark green? So short of only using test kits from the same manufacturer as your de-chlorinator—which test kits for ammonia are compatible with Prime and or AmQuel+Plus? Are the non-Nessler/salicylate kits all using the dry reagents?

    Does anyone have issues using a Kordon kit to test for ammonia with water using Prime for instance?
    I’m to the point of about being fed up with API’s test for nitrate (I’m going to start a separate thread for nitrate test recommendations once I post this one so hold your thoughts on that for a minute)
    Do you have a preference for AmQuel+Plus over Prime and or other brands of de-chlorinators if so why? Is the optimum solution when using Purigen (and you are bothering to re-use it), to just use Prime at the end of the re-charge, then soak, then use Amquel+Plus and the fancy Seachem gas exchange sensor system as your ammonia test? That’s what I’ve muddled out so far. Other ideas, thoughts?
    While I'm not reef ready, I am salt ernate lifestyle curious...

  • #2
    I use Amquel+plus and have been since I started keeping fish and it's proven worthy in several instances where chlorine/chloramines was present.

    I don't recharge Purigen normally so that is of no concern to me.

    I don't own a test kit so that is no problem to me either.

    I use a carbon bottle and have been since getting hardcore into the hobby but still back it up with a dose of Amquel.
    700g Mini-Monster tank

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    • #3
      I use prime and home-made zip drops in case the water co. decided to shock the system and not tell me.

      Mark
      What are the facts? Again and again and again--what are the facts? Shun wishful thinking, ignore devine revelation, forget what "the stars foretell", avoid opinion, care not what the neighbors think, never mind the unguessable "verdict of history"--what are the facts, and to how many decimal places? You pilot always into an unknown future; facts are your only clue.

      Robert Anson Heinlein

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      • #4
        Originally posted by wesleydnunder View Post
        I use prime and home-made zip drops in case the water co. decided to shock the system and not tell me.

        Mark
        What are zip drops Mark?
        All bleeding stops eventually...

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        • #5
          I use Amquel Plus mostly but for my Purigen recharging, I use Prime. I definitely get falsely high ammonia levels if I ever dose my tanks with Prime. Typically it's when I double or triple dose in response to something... I'll get an ammonia around 3 or 5 ppm when it truly is 0.
          All bleeding stops eventually...

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          • #6
            zip drops are some old school de-chlorinator! I remember using that as a kid when I use to breed convicts, could get an eye dropper bottle of the stuff for like 50cents!

            I think what Mark is referring to is sodium thiosulfate crystals/powders diluted into liquid form.
            700g Mini-Monster tank

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            • #7
              Oh nice!! Ok I remember now... having a chemist for a dad who is teaching you about dechlorinating means you learn the term "sodium thiosulfate" as a 9 year old, not "zip drops." Sigh. Nerd fo' life.
              All bleeding stops eventually...

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              • #8
                Originally posted by aquabee View Post
                What are zip drops Mark?
                Zip drops are a sodium thiosulfate solution. One drop dechlorinates 1 gallon of water. I make my own from distilled water and powdered sodium thiosulfate. The prime deals with the ammonia and is supposed to handle the chlorine as well but our water company shocks the system and chlorine is sometimes much higher so I use both.

                Mark
                What are the facts? Again and again and again--what are the facts? Shun wishful thinking, ignore devine revelation, forget what "the stars foretell", avoid opinion, care not what the neighbors think, never mind the unguessable "verdict of history"--what are the facts, and to how many decimal places? You pilot always into an unknown future; facts are your only clue.

                Robert Anson Heinlein

                Comment


                • #9
                  so the zip drops are used every water change or only when something tests off the charts?
                  75G Standard - High Light Planted Community Fish
                  28G Aquapod - Medium Light Planted Shrimp & Microrasboras
                  12G Eclipse - Bonsai Planted Betta & Shrimp
                  29G Standard - Vivarium w/ Red Devil Crabs
                  45G Exo-Terra - Terrarium w/ Hermit Crabs (in progress)
                  33G Cubish - Vivarium w/ D.auratus 'blue & bronze'

                  GHAC Member

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