Originally posted by SunnyHouTX
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Originally posted by sunkenmetal View PostNein
BTW, anybody know how long it takes typical biomedia to get fully loaded with good bacteria? A couple of weeks? A couple of months?
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amano will seed his canisters for two months, i think that seems a bit long. too bad you cant take it offline for a bit and blast em with a fishless cycle regime for a couple weeks. i loaded up biowheels to the point that they barely move in three doing this recently.75G Standard - High Light Planted Community Fish
28G Aquapod - Medium Light Planted Shrimp & Microrasboras
12G Eclipse - Bonsai Planted Betta & Shrimp
29G Standard - Vivarium w/ Red Devil Crabs
45G Exo-Terra - Terrarium w/ Hermit Crabs (in progress)
33G Cubish - Vivarium w/ D.auratus 'blue & bronze'
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on an interesting note, the german engineer olaf deter (a primary figure connected with introducing the hamburg mattenfilter to german aquarists on a large scale) will size these HMF systems so that 2 water exchanges pass through the poret pad per hour. he has calculated that this is optimum for bacterial conversion based on his experiences with sewerage treatment plants. i wonder if we are shooting ourselves in the foot by using high flow rate pumps on bio rigs? Maybe a slow trickle wet/dry for bio and higher flow cansiters for mechanical combination are the best / most efficient way?75G Standard - High Light Planted Community Fish
28G Aquapod - Medium Light Planted Shrimp & Microrasboras
12G Eclipse - Bonsai Planted Betta & Shrimp
29G Standard - Vivarium w/ Red Devil Crabs
45G Exo-Terra - Terrarium w/ Hermit Crabs (in progress)
33G Cubish - Vivarium w/ D.auratus 'blue & bronze'
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Originally posted by aggrofishkeeper View PostJust buy a bottle of live bacteria and dump it into your filter.
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you have to add bacteria glue too sunny. i always use the bacteria start stuff but i dont know if it establishes the filter much more quickly, especially since this is for a running aquarium so you have plenty of bacteria on the decor already. i do dose it now an again just to make sure that there are a variety of bugs present and not just a couple dominant ones. bio-zyme under the gravel worked well tho, but i cant find it for FW much these days.75G Standard - High Light Planted Community Fish
28G Aquapod - Medium Light Planted Shrimp & Microrasboras
12G Eclipse - Bonsai Planted Betta & Shrimp
29G Standard - Vivarium w/ Red Devil Crabs
45G Exo-Terra - Terrarium w/ Hermit Crabs (in progress)
33G Cubish - Vivarium w/ D.auratus 'blue & bronze'
GHAC Member
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Originally posted by Totenkampf View Poston an interesting note, the german engineer olaf deter (a primary figure connected with introducing the hamburg mattenfilter to german aquarists on a large scale) will size these HMF systems so that 2 water exchanges pass through the poret pad per hour. he has calculated that this is optimum for bacterial conversion based on his experiences with sewerage treatment plants. i wonder if we are shooting ourselves in the foot by using high flow rate pumps on bio rigs? Maybe a slow trickle wet/dry for bio and higher flow cansiters for mechanical combination are the best / most efficient way?
I think, high flow or low flow, what matters is the amount of active bacteria present on the bio media. I also think that for a bigger tank having a higher flow through rate in the filters and good flow inside the tank is important so that any ammonia/nitrite spikes are dissipated quickly.
That's why I wanted a 8x - 10x tank volume flow through my canisters and 4x - 5x flow through my sumps in all my tanks. So far this rule of thumb has served me well and I'm not speaking for others. When you get to 200+ gallon tanks, this gets harder to do because there aren't any canisters that can offer that kind of flow. At that level, 2x 2262 or 2x FX5 are the best options.
With municipal waste water treatment plants, the requirements are different since there's no way to retrieve water when it leaves the plant after treatment. So it's important to have as much reaction time as possible to get as much junk out as possible.
Since we recirculate water in our tanks between water changes, we can fudge with flow rates a little bit more since the water is constantly being treated as it's being loaded with ammonia.
There's a certain point where flow through the filters has to be enough to handle the bioload being created in the tank. Below that level, the filters can't keep up.
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I use floss in both canisters. I have to replace it a little more often but to me it's worth the work to have the water clear.
MarkWhat are the facts? Again and again and again--what are the facts? Shun wishful thinking, ignore devine revelation, forget what "the stars foretell", avoid opinion, care not what the neighbors think, never mind the unguessable "verdict of history"--what are the facts, and to how many decimal places? You pilot always into an unknown future; facts are your only clue.
Robert Anson Heinlein
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hmmm, maybe i should revisit floss on a cleanup type filter...i still dont want it in my tray canisters but maybe a mech only classic type?75G Standard - High Light Planted Community Fish
28G Aquapod - Medium Light Planted Shrimp & Microrasboras
12G Eclipse - Bonsai Planted Betta & Shrimp
29G Standard - Vivarium w/ Red Devil Crabs
45G Exo-Terra - Terrarium w/ Hermit Crabs (in progress)
33G Cubish - Vivarium w/ D.auratus 'blue & bronze'
GHAC Member
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