Water Parameter help (ph/kh/gh) / Advice for using RO/DI H2O & SeaChem buffers.

[nuvoguy]

I have never considered water chemistry until now. I have always used filtered water through activated carbon only for my fish (yes I know a Cardinal sign-some fish wordplay). I recently bought a 5 stage RO/DI unit to filter my drinking water. I know, some of you may suggest a dedicated unit for an aquarium or a specific brand for the hobby. But it is what I have to work with.

I plan to use the ro/di water for a planted tank. I recently bought a tds & ph meter. I have never tested the gh/kh but plan to buy a testing kit to measure them.

The Goal is to keep some tetras/small fish in a heavily planted tank with better water parameters that I can maintain without needing to test again after establishing the tank by using calculations.

Assume we both understand the math; meaning SeaChems rec. of caps or mL product/per Gallons(gen 10 or 20)

Product amount in mL..........Product amount needed (x)................... Solve for X
------------------------- = ---------------------------------------
Per Gallons ........................My tank # Gallons

Let's use Neon Tetras as an example with H2O conditions needing to be

Water Conditions

68-78° F, KH 4-8, pH 5.0-7.0

I will be using SeaChem products to maintain the ph, gh/kh. (Ph of 6.5, kh of 6)

Products that I will be using
SeaChem Stability- but that doesn't require any real calculations

SeaChem Acid buffer & Alkaline buffer
(or would you recommend Seachem Acid regulator + Neutral regulator to make things easier?)

As per SeaChem's instruction

First determine the amount of Alkaline Buffer™ needed for the volume of water. This should be determined based upon your desired alkalinity (KH). Then, divide by the number in the middle column to obtain the correct amount of Acid Buffer™ required

So I have done all that, I have the correct ph and kh. I test the water with my ph meter and all is good. I test with my tds meter and get a value. Whatever the tds number is, I would now have to add SeaChem Equilibrium to increase the gh. So I do the calculations, add and mix.

So I test again and my gh is acceptable for what the fish like rather than whatever comes out of my tap.

Now for water changes, I will have a separate container with water already mixed with the products.
For water that has evaporated, I will just replace it with ro/di water. Because the minerals don't evaporate.

Is what I said correct? Should I use SeaChem Acid Regulator + Neutral Regulator to make things easier?
The substrate will include driftwood (which will have been boiled but the remaining tannins are acidic and may lower the ph), clay substrate for the plants, and crushed rocks/pebbles.

What else am I missing? I know, as the system (aquarium) will mature over time (plants growing, fish waste accumulates, bacterial activity and breakdown etc) the water parameters will change. What should I be worried about? Will the rocks, being made from calcium change the gh or kh?

Am I always at risk for a tank ph crash?

Before you answer, I know how elementary my knowledge is. I know I probably sound stupid. I will give you that! But I rather sound stupid than cause the fish to suffer or worse.

Any advice is appreciated. Even if you paste links to Youtube videos or links to articles, I will greatly appreciate it as I am new to the "exciting world" of water parameters.

[tls2death]

I have never considered water chemistry until now. I have always used filtered water through activated carbon only for my fish (yes I know a Cardinal sign-some fish wordplay). I recently bought a 5 stage RO/DI unit to filter my drinking water. I know, some of you may suggest a dedicated unit for an aquarium or a specific brand for the hobby. But it is what I have to work with.

RO/DO unit for home or fish, doesn't matter. Just want your TDS to be as close to 0 as possible if you're using the DI resin cartridges.

I plan to use the ro/di water for a planted tank. I recently bought a tds & ph meter. I have never tested the gh/kh but plan to buy a testing kit to measure them.

The Goal is to keep some tetras/small fish in a heavily planted tank with better water parameters that I can maintain without needing to test again after establishing the tank by using calculations.

Assume we both understand the math; meaning SeaChems rec. of caps or mL product/per Gallons(gen 10 or 20)

Product amount in mL..........Product amount needed (x)................... Solve for X
------------------------- = ---------------------------------------
Per Gallons ........................My tank # Gallons

I can't really make out what it is that you're doing here due to the text formatting but just multiply the volume of water you're using (not your total tank volume!) by the ratio of mL:gal from the instructions (ie 5 mL per 10 gal == 5mL/10gal == 1mL/2gal * 35 gal = 17.5mL). That will give you the required dose in mL

Let's use Neon Tetras as an example with H2O conditions needing to be

Water Conditions

68-78° F, KH 4-8, pH 5.0-7.0

I will be using SeaChem products to maintain the ph, gh/kh. (Ph of 6.5, kh of 6)

Products that I will be using
SeaChem Stability- but that doesn't require any real calculations

SeaChem Acid buffer & Alkaline buffer
(or would you recommend Seachem Acid regulator + Neutral regulator to make things easier?)

As per SeaChem's instruction

First determine the amount of Alkaline Buffer™ needed for the volume of water. This should be determined based upon your desired alkalinity (KH). Then, divide by the number in the middle column to obtain the correct amount of Acid Buffer™ required

So I have done all that, I have the correct ph and kh. I test the water with my ph meter and all is good. I test with my tds meter and get a value. Whatever the tds number is, I would now have to add SeaChem Equilibrium to increase the gh. So I do the calculations, add and mix.

So I test again and my gh is acceptable for what the fish like rather than whatever comes out of my tap.

Now for water changes, I will have a separate container with water already mixed with the products.
For water that has evaporated, I will just replace it with ro/di water. Because the minerals don't evaporate.

Is what I said correct?

Yes, correct here. I don't like using commercial products anymore so I would suggest looking into getting Potassium Bicarbonate (which is what it may actually be anyway) or you can use baking soda (sodium bicarbonate, which is less preferable to the K2CO3 because sodium can accumulate in the tank which isn't desirable) and you would follow the same process with (add, test, add, test...)

Should I use SeaChem Acid Regulator + Neutral Regulator to make things easier?
The substrate will include driftwood (which will have been boiled but the remaining tannins are acidic and may lower the ph), clay substrate for the plants, and crushed rocks/pebbles.

What else am I missing? I know, as the system (aquarium) will mature over time (plants growing, fish waste accumulates, bacterial activity and breakdown etc) the water parameters will change. What should I be worried about? Will the rocks, being made from calcium change the gh or kh?

My shrimp tank with driftwood tends to be more acidic than my tanks without (or with rock). My tank containing rock has a significantly higher pH and KH due to the mineral content of the rock dissolving. Your rocks MAY affect your KH and pH depending on what they are exactly but something like river rock shouldn't have any bearing on your parameters.

Am I always at risk for a tank ph crash?

Well, if your KH is suitable then that will buffer pH and prevent crashing.

Before you answer, I know how elementary my knowledge is. I know I probably sound stupid. I will give you that! But I rather sound stupid than cause the fish to suffer or worse.

Any advice is appreciated. Even if you paste links to Youtube videos or links to articles, I will greatly appreciate it as I am new to the "exciting world" of water parameters.

Hey, you've got a pretty good grasp on what's going on before you get started which is a hell of a lot more than I can say for myself. LOL. I think you'll do just fine here and welcome!