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Still not done John. I need need help with the "12V, DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) relay" and wiring the whole thing together.
This is just not my expertize.
Ok... here goes. I threw together a wiring diagram that should work for what we are trying to do here. During "Normal" mode (when you electricity is on and things are normal) this relay will allow 110V from your wall to power the float charger and also keep the inverter off. When the power coming out of the wall turns off (during a power outage), the relay will switch the float charger off, and will turn the inverter on, therefore turning the "emergency" pump(s) on.
Now the only downside to this setup is the fact that the "emergency" pump will not operate so long as your home's power is ON. To have a pump that operates on both wall power and battery power is much more complicated (unless you are using DC pumps... like Tunze's... which = $$$)
You will notice that I have included a 20 Amp fuse on both wires running into the relay. These fuses should be rated so that they properly protect the relay. The contacts on the relay will have an amperage rating. The fuses should be sized as so that they blow before the amperage ratings of the relays contacts are met. (ie. if the relays contacts say 15A, use a 10A or 12A fuse. I simply used 20A as an example) Your wires should also be sized according to the fuses too. I will let Google help you out with wire/fuse/amperage rating charts
And again, just to cover myself in today's hyper-lawsuit era, please proceed with this at your own risk. I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or any of your property attempting to build a battery backup following this design. Im just trying to offer what I know as to how to accomplish a battery backup system
A Tunze 6025 is an AC pump, which will require the inverter/ATS as posted above. You would need to get one of the DC models (6055, 6101, 6105, and a few others) in order to operate them directly from a DC battery (without the inverter/ATS). Basically any of the "controllable" Tunzes should be DC.
If the battery is not a sealed lead acid battery it needs to be somewhere that is ventilated. Not in the living part of your house a regular "car" or marine battery releases hydrogen when charging. Also check yor inverter most of them will shut down when the battery voltage drops to 10 volts. I am getting the pieces for a backup my self. During Ike last year my computer backup with 2 - 7.5 amp-hour bateries ran a 3 watt air pump for 12 hours before quitting. If you a going to hookup a generator to your house power you need a proper transfer switch. The 110/220 that you feed into your house can back feed up the power system and energize the power lines which is not only dangerous for the power crews it is illegal.
The 110/220 that you feed into your house can back feed up the power system and energize the power lines which is not only dangerous for the power crews it is illegal.
Agreed, an ATS is the only correct way to do this that will keep you within code, however as long as your main breaker is OFF, there is no risk of back-feeding the power system.
RMD55 is exactly right about keeping the battery in a vented location while charging. Hydrogen accumulation can be sort of a problem if a flame or spark is introduced. I work at a facility that uses Material Handling Equipment that requires charging LARGE lead acid batteries and we actually have a hydrogen level sensor in the room that the batteries are charged in that will sound an alarm if the level gets within a dangerous level. There is also a large vent fan that pushes air outside.
Finally had the time to start working on this project again.
About to ordered the deep cycle battery. Found one that import car racers use. The battery is 1/3 the size of a car battery and it a lot lighter.
Was looking for the "12V, DPDT (Double Pole, Double Throw) relay," and found one at RS. Didn't buy it cause Ek said there is another way.
When I talked to EK he said there was a way to keep the powerhead going at all times, during both power out and when normal power is provided.
Under the current diagram and instructions meusereef pointed out that "Now the only downside to this setup is the fact that the "emergency" pump will not operate so long as your home's power is ON. To have a pump that operates on both wall power and battery power is much more complicated."
Can anyone come up with a way where the powerhead will run during normal power and keep the powerhead running after the power outage as well?
The relay that I had planned on using would have allowed normal operation during power on done by somewhat of a double dual throw relay... which would not only allow switching during power outages but also know when power is supplied through the outlet.
Here is a good link that I found that has not only diagrams, descriptions but also links to items needed to make a full blown self switching battery backup.
Or yall broke a$$es could just fork over a few hundred and get an Ecotech Vortech which has it all built in.
I had to be the guinea pig and pay out the yang but the battery backup portion of the Vortech is a simple lead-free sealed battery so there are no electronics or anything other then a nice metal casing surrounding a battery.... so get the vortech and then wire up your choice of battery.
The Vortech alone is low consumption which can run on the tiny, overpriced battery for up to 30hrs at half speed(boocoo gph) so imagine putting a beast sized Optima deep cycle on it!
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