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Want to build an Under-the-stand sump... 60g FW... Ideas?

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  • #31
    Re: Want to build an Under-the-stand sump... 60g FW... Ideas?

    Seems a bit pricey

    Sent from my spaceship using Tapatalk 2.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by mistahoo View Post
      Seems a bit pricey

      Sent from my spaceship using Tapatalk 2.


      If you're joking, then I'll laugh... if you're not... well.... :)

      Let's compare:

      Here is a link to just a sump. No pump, no down lines or returns. Just the sump:

      Oh... it's $249.

      I required 300gph or higher from the pump:


      I paid $20.

      I paid $37 for the PVC and plastic hoses. .. It isn't pretty for my first time at bat, but it works well. I need to make one change and that is the ball valve needs to change to something with more control since I can't tweak the ball valve in small enough increments to balance the return of the pump effectively. Right now it takes about 3-4 hours, but either the pump will push more water than is draining, or the drain goes faster than the pump. In the former, it just means the pump runs out of water and pushes some air for a second, but the system keeps working. In the latter situation, the tank drains to the flooding control holes in the down tube breaking suction... then I have to restart the system, or it's too noisy. I'm still tweaking, but it's been fun so far.

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      • #33
        Re: Want to build an Under-the-stand sump... 60g FW... Ideas?

        Something called used. Lol if you're lucky enough you can find a 125gal rated wet dry for $20-40.

        Sent from my spaceship using Tapatalk 2.

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        • #34
          Everything was new (Gnu?) except the pump. I still have additional plans for the whole thing like creating a better diffuser on the exhaust end of things. Putting a "nicer" looking over flow box on the intake side of things. The problem I have with the overflow box is that they only skim off the surface of the tank. The downline going into the tank will pick up stuff through the whole water column.
          Last edited by CptCrusty1; 02-27-2013, 12:45 PM. Reason: typo...

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          • #35
            UPDATE: In an effort to get better control on the flow, I switched the ball valve to a gate valve. Bad move. The gate valve, even though it's more precise with regards to controllling the water flow, is also more restrictive to the water flow, thus, it is open all the way and the return pump is more than keeping up with it. Conversely, the Ball Valve stays about 1/2 open and I have to tap it a teency bit to get the flow just right. So... back to the ball valve....

            UNLESS... I switch to 1 inch PVC instead of 3/4 Inch....... Hmmm. More pipe, more cutting, more fun.... wooohooooo!!

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            • #36
              are you using PVC ball valve? I changed most of my ball valves to stainless steel. they work so much better. Its like night and day.
              Nothing Kills Evil Like a Sharp Stick...

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              • #37
                Originally posted by mistahoo View Post
                Something called used. Lol if you're lucky enough you can find a 125gal rated wet dry for $20-40.

                Sent from my spaceship using Tapatalk 2.
                125gal wet/dry for $20-40? you would have to be extremely lucky like the luckiest person in the universe lol
                125g: Empty For Now
                90g: Planted S.A.



                “The supreme art of war is to subdue the enemy without fighting.”
                Sun Tzu, The Art of War

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                • #38
                  good build out Cpt. been thinking about doing the same thing mostly due to lack of space under the tank but nevertheless good work hopefully you won't have any issues
                  125g: Empty For Now
                  90g: Planted S.A.



                  “The supreme art of war is to subdue the enemy without fighting.”
                  Sun Tzu, The Art of War

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by troy tucker View Post
                    are you using PVC ball valve? I changed most of my ball valves to stainless steel. they work so much better. Its like night and day.
                    I didn't know there was an option for a stainless ball valve. So is that a PVC housing? Is it something that plugs into the PVC directly?

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by LordBarron7692 View Post
                      good build out Cpt. been thinking about doing the same thing mostly due to lack of space under the tank but nevertheless good work hopefully you won't have any issues
                      Baron, it wasn't hard. I tried really hard not to over think it which is difficult for me. I got so much advice about overflow boxes, this pump/that pump, gotta-haves, etc. When I plotted it out, I spent around $75 total. I really took my time. If you want detailed pictures, I'll be happy to supply them.

                      What I'd like to do now is build another one that is 20 gallons, but within the dimensions allowed. This brings me to a question...

                      I'm moving about 600 gph right now, about 10 times volume an hour. I've effectivly doubled my flow, and my filtration; however, If I doubled my filtration size again but kept flow the same, how does that stack up against just increasing flow? I can't put 1000gph into a 60g fw tank.,, but I want to overstock it... so the answer I guess is to keep increasing filter material, not necessarily flow, right?

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                      • #41
                        They are an option. just not a cheep option.
                        photo (188).jpg
                        Nothing Kills Evil Like a Sharp Stick...

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                        • #42
                          Ok. So you have adapters, etc. in place... What is you definition of "not Cheap"....

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