Here we go...first 30gal planted tank

[armthehomeless]

I'd take him out of that tank until the ammonia level is down to zero as Complexity and Mzungu have suggested. Just my .02.

[Complexity]

kevinly, why would you do that to the molly? Have you read what ammonia poisoning does to a fish? It's cruel! Makes me sick to my stomach to even think about what that poor molly is going through.

[Complexity]

http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/disease/p/ammoniapoison.htm:

The gills will begin to turn red or lilac in color, and may appear to be bleeding. The fish will being to lose its appetite and become increasingly lethargic. In some cases fish may be observed laying at the bottom of the tank with clamped fins.

As the damage from the ammonia poisoning continues, the tissues will be damaged as evidenced by red streaks or bloody patches that appear on the body and fins. Internal damage is occurring to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. The fish begins to hemorrhage internally and externally, and eventually dies.

http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/disease/freshwater/ammonia.html

Levels of ammonia as low as .25 Parts Per Million (PPM) can cause damage and distress, and ammonia levels of 1 PPM will cause damage, even if the fish don't show any symptoms. Higher than 1 PPM or extended exposure to elevated levels cause irreversible damage and shorten the life of the fish.

Ammonia toxicity starts at the gills. The fish start gasping or hovering at the surface and the gills will look red.

Continued exposure irritates the skin. The fish will start flashing and flicking and may seem agitated. You may notice a milky appearance to the fish because of increased slime production or the fish may get very dark. At this point the gill tissue will start to die off and you may notice shreds of gill tissue. The gills may look grey or pale.

Further exposure and the ammonia invade the entire system. The fish will stop eating and move less and less. Eventually they will stay at the bottom. The fins may be burned away at this point.

As elevated ammonia continues, their tissues will be damaged. If you see red streaks or bloody places on their body and fins, there is internal damage to internal organs and brain. If it goes on long enough, the fish will start to bleed internally and may develop dropsy as the organs start to shut down.

[kevinly]

Okay I quickly took the molly back out. However, today I noticed in my tank, there is cyanobacteria growing. Should I be concerned? Not too familiar with it.

[Mzungu]

Keep up with the water changes, make sure the filter's pushing water throughout the tank, and while you're doing water changes try to siphon out as much as you can. There are some treatment options, but I would try to take care of it manually first.

[Complexity]

Thank you for moving the molly.

Cyno is due to poor water conditions. Mzungu has the answer. Water changes and make sure your filter is able to handle the tank size.

Cyno can easily be handled later, but it's just one more sign that says that tank is uninhabitable. Too much ammonia for too long with too few water changes.

How often are you doing water changes and how much water are you changing each time?

[kevinly]

I have been doing 50% waterchanges everyday.

[Complexity]

I would think that would work then. You have good filtration, as well, with your Eheim canister.

Is the water still cloudy? Don't worry about the cyno. That's very easy to get rid of.

Let's just wait until you get the test kit so we can finally see what's going on. Once you can test the water parameters, it'll be much easier to determine what the tank needs and where it is in the cycling process.

[kevinly]

Guys just came home from work and the water is finally clear!!!

However, stupid test kit not in yet, so can't throughly check the water parameters.

[Complexity]

Guys just came home from work and the water is finally clear!!!

Yup, right on time! Remember my earlier prediction?

I will take a stab and say you should have clear water by this weekend.

Just what I thought! I also think you'll find things will turn around this next week with the tank cycling and finally being ready for your molly. Just a little more patience, and you should be through the worst of it.

However, stupid test kit not in yet, so can't throughly check the water parameters.

Let's hope it comes in on Monday. But as long as there are no fish in the tank, it's not critical. It can wait a day or two more.

Keep up with your water changes.

[kevinly]

Okay finally got my test kit. Here are my results:

Ammonia = Approximately 3.0ppm
Nitrite = 0ppm
Nitrate = 0ppm

So I'm thinking I need to do more waterchanges till ammonia is down to zero.

Water is clear now, but a little yellow still.

[Mzungu]

For how long are you keeping the lights on each day?

The plants will help with the ammonia until the bacteria that converts it to nitrite and then nitrate appear. However, the plants need light to grow and use the ammonia. I would just keep up with your routine water changes. Since there are no fish yet, you don't need to up the water changes. Just keep with what you're doing now.

This doesn't mean it's ready for fish, though. Once you get zero ammonia AND zero nitrite, it's cycled and you can add fish.

Glad you finally got your test kit! :)

Are your lights on a timer?

[kevinly]

For how long are you keeping the lights on each day?

Are your lights on a timer?

Lights and co2 are on for 12 hours a day on a timer.

[wesleydnunder]

Why are you doing water changes in a cycling tank with no fish? Glad you got the molly out.

Mark

[Complexity]

Why are you doing water changes in a cycling tank with no fish?

Mark, he was getting cyno which is due to poor water quality. So he needs to do some water changes, just not nearly as many as he would have to do if the molly was still in the tank.

Kevinly, your test readings indicate that the tank has not cycled yet. As I mentioned to Mark, since you were getting cyno, that would indicate the water quality was getting too poor. So water changes would be in order in that case.

There's a lot of leeway you can take when there aren't any fish in the tank. What I'd probably do is test the water every morning, and if the ammonia is above 1.0, do a 50% water change. This is to keep the water in good shape to prevent things such as cyno.

By testing the ammonia every morning, you should begin to get a feel for how much ammonia the tank is producing each day. When you see the ammonia production drop off, test for nitrites and nitrates. If you get any reading on nitrites or nitrates, begin testing all 3 parameters each morning. The time from which you first see nitrites to the time the tank is fully cycled could be only a matter of days so you can literally watch the tank cycle right before your eyes. The nitrites will show up, then quickly climb very high, and then nitrates will appear. As this happens, your ammonia will decrease. And then your nitrites will decrease. In a week or less, you'll have 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrites and a varying amount of nitrates. Do water changes to keep the nitrates in check. This is when your molly can come back to the tank.

Keep us posted on the test results!