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Re: Getting A New Planted Tank
Good choice with the Eco-Complete. I use that in my 40 gallon breeder tank, which has the same footprint as your tank (36" x 18"). I used 80 pounds - 4 bags - and it's got about 2 inches to 3 inches of depth (I sloped it a bit from front to back). This substrate comes packed in water, don't rinse it or anything, just put the entire contents of the bag into your tank. This is a big advantage over fluorite, because that stuff needs to be rinsed extensively to get all the dust-like particles out so it doesn't cloud your tank water very much. I didn't have much of a problem with initial cloudiness with my Eco-Complete. I cannot comment on Aquasoil because I have not used that product before, but I know many people use it and experience success. Fish Gallery has both in stock usually, so you can go compare their appearance and select which you feel is best for your needs.
As far as lighting goes, I'd recommend a 2 tube power compact unit similar to this one. You want to be around 2 watts per gallon on that tank to be able to grow the plants that you have on your list. The Dwarf Hairgrass will grow better the more light you throw at it, and the other stuff on your list that is listed for more light will at least be able to grow, although you may not get ideal coloration or growth rates unless you add a bit more light. If you feel competent with simple wiring, check out www.ahsupply.com for kits you can install into a canopy. This route will allow pretty good customization to get the exact amount of light you need. For low light, about 1.5WPG, medium I'd say around 2-2.5, and high I'd say would be 3.0 and up (high requiring CO2 and fertilization).
Fertilizers are tricky because there are so many different types and methods of dosing them. Many people with smaller tanks use Seachem Excel, Fluorish, and the rest of their stuff. However, dosing these in a larger tank may be cost prohibitive to you. Many people with tanks your size use what is known as the Estimative Index using dry ferts which you can order from various places online. Still others use stuff that you can buy from PetCo/Smart like root tabs and other liquids in bottles. The stuff from www.pfertz.com is pretty much the same stuff you can make from dry ferts, marketed with nice packaging and trouble-free appeal. You'll pay for that though. With whatever method you choose, it will be crucial to keep up with your regimen for ideal plant health.
For CO2, I'd recommend going with a pressurized setup if you want to try it, DIY yeast reactors are far too unreliable for a tank your size. A setup for this includes several items:
- CO2 Tank - I'd say a 5 pound tank would be sufficient. You can usually find these for about $50 in good used condition in the fish market here on HFB.
- Regulator - This connects to the tank and controls the release of the CO2. Several accessories can be included in a regulator. A bubble counter will allow you to see exactly what your gas output rate is. A needle valve will allow more precise control over your bubble rate. A solenoid will allow you to connect your CO2 to a timer.
- Diffuser/reactor - There are several ways of getting the CO2 dissolved in the water. Many places sell glass diffusers that mount inside the tank with suction cups, and there are also many plans online to build a homemade PVC inline diffuser you can use with a canister filter. Note that cheap glass diffusers off Ebay have a record of breaking kind of easily, but on the other end buying a super-expensive ADA one may be overkill for your first purchase.
- Check valve - You'll want a brass one. This prevents water from getting into your expensive setup and ruining it.
You did not mention what type of filter you are planning on using. If you plan on doing CO2, you'll want a canister like an Eheim, Fluval or Rena Filstar. A HOB, or Power Filter, is a good option because they are cheaper and very efficient, but if you use CO2 with them they off-gas a lot of CO2 making it hard to keep it at ideal levels.
Here are some sites you should check out:
www.plantedtank.net - good forums focusing on planted tanks. Subforums for pretty much every aspect of a tank/equipment.
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com - I ordered some CO2 stuff from here, they have pretty good service.
http://www.rexgrigg.com/diy-reactor.htm - How to build a PVC inline reactor. Rex has a pretty elitist attitude but the reactor is solid. The rest of his site has some good info too.
Good luck, and please ask questions even if you think they are stupid! I could have saved a LOT of money when I first started if I had just asked more questions!
Good choice with the Eco-Complete. I use that in my 40 gallon breeder tank, which has the same footprint as your tank (36" x 18"). I used 80 pounds - 4 bags - and it's got about 2 inches to 3 inches of depth (I sloped it a bit from front to back). This substrate comes packed in water, don't rinse it or anything, just put the entire contents of the bag into your tank. This is a big advantage over fluorite, because that stuff needs to be rinsed extensively to get all the dust-like particles out so it doesn't cloud your tank water very much. I didn't have much of a problem with initial cloudiness with my Eco-Complete. I cannot comment on Aquasoil because I have not used that product before, but I know many people use it and experience success. Fish Gallery has both in stock usually, so you can go compare their appearance and select which you feel is best for your needs.
As far as lighting goes, I'd recommend a 2 tube power compact unit similar to this one. You want to be around 2 watts per gallon on that tank to be able to grow the plants that you have on your list. The Dwarf Hairgrass will grow better the more light you throw at it, and the other stuff on your list that is listed for more light will at least be able to grow, although you may not get ideal coloration or growth rates unless you add a bit more light. If you feel competent with simple wiring, check out www.ahsupply.com for kits you can install into a canopy. This route will allow pretty good customization to get the exact amount of light you need. For low light, about 1.5WPG, medium I'd say around 2-2.5, and high I'd say would be 3.0 and up (high requiring CO2 and fertilization).
Fertilizers are tricky because there are so many different types and methods of dosing them. Many people with smaller tanks use Seachem Excel, Fluorish, and the rest of their stuff. However, dosing these in a larger tank may be cost prohibitive to you. Many people with tanks your size use what is known as the Estimative Index using dry ferts which you can order from various places online. Still others use stuff that you can buy from PetCo/Smart like root tabs and other liquids in bottles. The stuff from www.pfertz.com is pretty much the same stuff you can make from dry ferts, marketed with nice packaging and trouble-free appeal. You'll pay for that though. With whatever method you choose, it will be crucial to keep up with your regimen for ideal plant health.
For CO2, I'd recommend going with a pressurized setup if you want to try it, DIY yeast reactors are far too unreliable for a tank your size. A setup for this includes several items:
- CO2 Tank - I'd say a 5 pound tank would be sufficient. You can usually find these for about $50 in good used condition in the fish market here on HFB.
- Regulator - This connects to the tank and controls the release of the CO2. Several accessories can be included in a regulator. A bubble counter will allow you to see exactly what your gas output rate is. A needle valve will allow more precise control over your bubble rate. A solenoid will allow you to connect your CO2 to a timer.
- Diffuser/reactor - There are several ways of getting the CO2 dissolved in the water. Many places sell glass diffusers that mount inside the tank with suction cups, and there are also many plans online to build a homemade PVC inline diffuser you can use with a canister filter. Note that cheap glass diffusers off Ebay have a record of breaking kind of easily, but on the other end buying a super-expensive ADA one may be overkill for your first purchase.
- Check valve - You'll want a brass one. This prevents water from getting into your expensive setup and ruining it.
You did not mention what type of filter you are planning on using. If you plan on doing CO2, you'll want a canister like an Eheim, Fluval or Rena Filstar. A HOB, or Power Filter, is a good option because they are cheaper and very efficient, but if you use CO2 with them they off-gas a lot of CO2 making it hard to keep it at ideal levels.
Here are some sites you should check out:
www.plantedtank.net - good forums focusing on planted tanks. Subforums for pretty much every aspect of a tank/equipment.
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com - I ordered some CO2 stuff from here, they have pretty good service.
http://www.rexgrigg.com/diy-reactor.htm - How to build a PVC inline reactor. Rex has a pretty elitist attitude but the reactor is solid. The rest of his site has some good info too.
Good luck, and please ask questions even if you think they are stupid! I could have saved a LOT of money when I first started if I had just asked more questions!
You really know your stuff! Thanks for the advice. I can't look at every link you gave me at the moment but I will in my free time. I looked at the link to the light and it says it comes with legs? Does that mean I can't put it on a glass top? The tank I intend to buy will come with one. Here is the link to the thread about my future tank: 
Anyways, you will see that I intend to get an Eheim 2217 canister filter. Also thanks for the information about CO2! I never knew what people were talking about when they used those terms. I don't plan on getting CO2 now, but if I ever do I'll ask you what to get. :wink: So about the fertilizers. You don't seem to like the Seachem stuff, but that is probably more accessible to me, so if I were to use them how would I dose the tank? Is it much different than the dry dosing? I have another question about lighting: When you say that I need to have a certain amount of watts per gallon, do I also need to take into account the height of the tank and light penetration? Thank you in advance! 
:( :wail: :wail: :sniff: 
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