NEwbie with Questions

[Chef]

I've recently got into this hobby and I'm trying not to make too many mistakes the first time around. I have a 55 gallon tank and I've just acquired a Coralife 48" light with 2 x 65w bulbs. I don't really know how many lumens it put out. Is it overkill for a fresh water tank...I would like to start a planted tank from the beginning. How essential is adding co2 to the water? Will that effect fish? I'm just full of question...It's like I have a gun with endless bullets just firing away with questions! HELP!

Vince

[fshfrk]

The experts will set you up soon! Mzungu and westleydwnunder.

[freespool]

Sounds like you have a nice setup to start with. That light sounds good, better than what I have now. There is lots of info on this board. Use the search option in the top right, it has helped me tons. Also need to select a filter system. Good luck with it all, sorry I can't help with a planted tank as I have never had one.

[jarrodaden]

If you are a newbie and you are trying to keep things relatively simple (with no CO2), there are plenty of plants that don't require CO2. I have never used CO2 and my plants are doing fine. I have swords, anubias, and java moss. The only thing I do besides light is the "plant tabs". These are fertilizers in a lima bean size that you push down into the gravel about every other month. 8-10 hours of light works fine for me. Any more than that and I start getting algae.

The other consideration is aquasoil. I don't use this for my plants either.

Welcome to the Box.

[mnemenoi]

Usually planted tank lighting is calculated by wattage per gallon (thus 2 x 65w = 130 total watts divided by gallons 55 = 2.36 watts per gallon). Most planted tanks should aim for 2-3 watts per gallon and yours is well within those parameters. Plants can differ quite a bit on their requirements on light, from low (1 wpg) to high (3-4wpg). Placement in the aquarium can also alter their amount of light (i.e. placing in the center of the aquarium). I would avoid any high light, low growing plant (HC or glosso), but other then a few finicky ones you should be great on light in my opinion.

Co2 is another option, though I do not use it in mine. I use Excel as a carbon supplement and achieve good results, though it can be expensive in larger tanks. Co2 can effect fish and significantly alter your Ph. It is usually dosed with a Ph monitor that shuts down the solenoid when the Ph drops to a certain point. Look over a few systems and see if it is something you might be willing to work with.

Substrate is something that I have found is much more important. I myself use Eco-Complete. AquaSoil is great as well, especially if your desired Ph is lower as it naturally acidifies the water. There are a lot of options here, look them over and ask questions if you need. Many Boxers have tried the various different brands/lines and can help out.

I think a good idea at this point might be to list what type of plants you like as well as any inhabitants that you want. Look over their requirements (Ph, temp, colors) and decide what you need to achieve the effect you are wanting. Dark substrate or lighter, Low or high Ph, blending background and showpiece plants with something as ground cover, any rocks or wood in the tank? This list might assist in choosing the correct equipment from the start and allow you to research your specific species for their difficulty and special requirements.

Good luck with the tank and I'd love to see some pics once it is all set up. I have a simple 10 gallon that has become a jungle, just need some motivation to do it again in a bigger tank.

[Mzungu]

I've recently got into this hobby and I'm trying not to make too many mistakes the first time around. I have a 55 gallon tank and I've just acquired a Coralife 48" light with 2 x 65w bulbs. I don't really know how many lumens it put out. Is it overkill for a fresh water tank...I would like to start a planted tank from the beginning. How essential is adding co2 to the water? Will that effect fish? I'm just full of question...It's like I have a gun with endless bullets just firing away with questions! HELP!

Vince

Can you tell us a bit more about your tank? Like what kind of filter you have, what kind/brand of bulbs are in your light, if the bulbs are new or, if used, how old, what kind of substrate you have or are planning to use, fish choices, etc? If all those aspects are still up in the air for you, then ask away! We're here to help!

Your light sounds good for a lower light tank, and if you don't want to add CO2, that's fine. Just know that CO2 is always helpful in planted tanks - the plants grow much more quickly, and that tends to keep the algae at bay. As long as you don't blast the tank with CO2, the fish will be fine.

Personally, I love setting up new tanks. So let this be exciting for you, not stressful! That's the key. :)

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[wesleydnunder]

When planning a planted tank set up there are some considerations before starting:

1. Light
As stated, what plants you want to grow determines how much light you need. At the WPG you have available you can grow just about any plants. The amount of light you have can be a double-edged sword though. It'll be plenty for photosynthesis but may also promote algae growth if your initial planting isn't dense enough so that the plants use the available nutrients and don't leave food for the algaes to take over... which takes us to fertilizers.

2. Ferts
Plants need nutrients to grow. The two fert categories involved are Macro ferts (those nutrients the plants use in the greatest amount), nitrate, potassium and phosphate, and micro ferts (those nutrients used in minute quantities) also called trace elements; magnesium, calcium, iron etc. Fertilizers can be purchased in liquid form or dry form. ADA has a full line of liquid ferts as does Seachem. AquariumFertilizer.com has a dry mix called PMDD pre-mix which is a mix of macros and traces. There are also tabs and spikes that can be placed under the substrate for root feeding plants. Choosing which fert to use and how much to add can also be tricky. Plants also need a carbon source, and the more light the more carbon they use.

3. Carbon
There are three basic carbon sources: First is the carbon dioxide that is already in the air we breathe. In water there is a natural exchange of oxygen and carbon that primarily takes place at the water's surface. There is some carbon/oxygen exchange from the plants, animals and micro-organisms that live in the water as well. The next source of carbon is the artificially injected carbon dioxide which we put in the water. This injected carbon allows us to increase the carbon dioxide levels in the water above what occurs naturally so that we can tailor the carbon levels for optimum plant growth. Last is an organic carbon liquid called Excel, made by Seachem. It can be used to add carbon to the tank for the above mentioned reasons. It can also be used as an algicide in certain applications.

For a healthy, algae-free planted aquarium the three main factors of light, fertilizer and carbon have to be in balance. It can be tricky and frustrating to achieve this balance. The easiest way is to start with a relatively undemanding low-light set-up. Generally these tanks don't need an added carbon source or additional fertilizers. In many opinions, low light is considered less than 1.5 wpg. or watt per gallon. Plants grow slower in these set ups and many plants that require more light to thrive won't do well at these light levels. The advantage of low light tanks is that they require much less work and equipment to have beautiful live plants. They also allow the neophyte to learn how to grow plants gradually, without the added work and worry often associated with the more sophisticated systems.

Medium light set ups fall into the light range of 1.5 to 2.5 wpg. In these light levels the plants grow faster and often need additional fertilizers and carbon source. A wider range of plants can be grown and a little more gardening is needed to keep the plants pruned to the shape you desire.

High-light set ups are light levels above 2.5 wpg. These are the most difficult and often the most beautiful of the planted tanks. They will require routine additions of fertilizers and an added carbon source. They are commonly referred to as hi-tech tanks because most of them will use pressurized co2 for added carbon and may have ph contollers to set the carbon saturation at a desired level. These tanks need very dense plant mass, frequent pruning of plants, often weekly or more to keep the plants in shape. They are also the planted tanks where algae can get to epidemic levels almost before your eyes. Balancing a hi-tech tank is sometimes maddeningly frustrating, but once you get the tank's balance figured out they can also be the most stunning in plant shape, color and species diversity.

With all of this said, I truly think you'll be happier with a lower light set-up, moderately planted, in which you can take your time learning to grow plants. You can always upgrade to the more ambitious equipment at some later time.

Good luck and never be shy about asking for help.

Mark

[Chef]

I hear time and time again that certain fish shouldn't be mixed into a community tank such as barbs and angel fish or smaller fish with cichlids because of predation and pure harrassment. But also hear that I need larger fish that are semi-aggressive to iniate that schooling response in the smaller fish. Where is my balance??? It's all trial and error depending on each fish's particular temperment? I'm looking to put a few mollies, barbs, cory's, silver dollars and a black ghost knife and a few loaches...will I crash and burn?

[Chef]

I have 2 compact flourescent 65w bulbs that are white and blue (combo?) I'm using a odyssea cf4 cannister. If anyone has one of these can you tell me why it's not forming a perfect seal when I close the cannister? Its leaking a few drops here and there. I'm also using an internal filter. I have gravel right now but something tells me that a softer substrate like sand would be more attractive to the fish. I appreciate you guys for helping me out. This is way different than my koi pond. Last year my pond almost iced over and I didn't lose one fish...I love those guys.

[wesleydnunder]

I hear time and time again that certain fish shouldn't be mixed into a community tank such as barbs and angel fish or smaller fish with cichlids because of predation and pure harrassment. But also hear that I need larger fish that are semi-aggressive to iniate that schooling response in the smaller fish. Where is my balance??? It's all trial and error depending on each fish's particular temperment? I'm looking to put a few mollies, barbs, cory's, silver dollars and a black ghost knife and a few loaches...will I crash and burn?

I think silver dollars are gonna get too big for your 55, the rest of the fish will go together fine. Have you looked at possibly opaline or pearl gouramis?

Mark

[Chef]

I was thinking about gouramis but I haven't giving a thought to the exact type. Will my smaller fish school more with cichids and gouramis? How many of each is optimum?

[5thwardboy]

If you decide to set up planted tank, I recomend not the silver dollar since they might nip your plants. For gouramis I suggest pearl or/ and draft honey gouramis because of the color.

To prevent canister filter from leaking, I use petroleum jelly to coat the rubber o ring. It work for me without affecting the fish. Good luck.

[TheOldMan]

Your bulbs may be not real good for freshwater planted tanks as they sound like for Saltwater tanks. Most dual colored bulbs are part actintic which are of no benefit for plants. However, you still could grow most lowlight plants.

[Chef]

What is a good bulb to use for planted tanks?

[TheOldMan]

Bulbs in the 5500 to 10,000 k range are good. Usually about 6700K is recommended.