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  • Bio Balls?

    As I've stated before, we were given a 180g in April & we set it up for our Oscars, etc. The previous owner had stored it for a long time, but came with everything the previous owner used. All it needed was a good cleaning, some PVC & a bulk head replacement, which hubby the ex-plumber took care of.

    We've never had a wet/dry before so we went in blind, learned as we went & used what we had. Previously it was a salt water tank. Obviously, we cleaned everything, washed the bio-balls, let the tank run so it could cycle, etc. We did our water test, added our fish on May 5th, checked out water parameters weekly & again yesterday just to make sure everything was still good. Everything is still within range.

    In my research, I've read that no one is really using the bio balls anymore and have gone to other things for their wet/drys such as live rock rubble. Thing is, everything I read about live rock rubble is SW. I don't claim, by any means, to be knowledgeable about SW. I'm a saltwater dummy/idiot/moron. This tank is FW.

    My question is: What do you suggest I use instead of bio balls in a FW tank?

    I don't particularly care for the bio balls because I've read that things get trapped in there and decay. My water parameters are checked regularly and are fine and I don't want to mess that up. I'd like to get away from the bio balls completely, but what else should I use in their place?

    180g houses:
    2 Oscars
    1 Pleco
    2 Parrots
    1 Dinosaur Bichir
    2 Kissing Gourami
    1 Banded Leporinus
    180g - 2 Red Oscars, 1 Tiger Oscar, 1 JD, Convicts, convicts & more convicts
    75g - 1 Silver Aro, 1 Mean Koi Angel
    50g - Various platy & mollies
    10g - 1 Green Spotted Puffer

  • #2
    I still use bio balls in my wet dry filters. I rinse them out in tank water a couple of times a year and so far everything has worked out perfectly.
    http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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    • #3
      Originally posted by SunnyHouTX View Post
      I still use bio balls in my wet dry filters. I rinse them out in tank water a couple of times a year and so far everything has worked out perfectly.
      +1 Same here.
      30Long: L134 Leopard Frog Plecos X16, Corydoras Sterbai X9, Endlers X4

      Small ADA nano (~8gal): ... BKK or OEBT breeding tank in the works!

      75g Craigslist Special: In the works...

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      • #4
        I use an Eheim 2217 to clean my wetdry out quarterly. Use pickup in lower section and return to wash bio-balls. Let it run for an hour or so while doing a water change. Works out fine. I also clean the sponge out at that time. I have a FX5 on the same tank. I clean it regularly too, but not at the same time as wetdry as to not kill my bioload.
        Fishtafarian- Fish are more than just a hobby, they are an obsession.

        110 gal Tall (Angel Community)
        29 gal (Planted Puffer)
        10 gal (snails and small planted)
        5 gal Hex (shrimp)

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        • #5
          Anything used in a wet/dry will trap detritus/waste and add to the problem if left unattended.

          Bio-balls are easier to clean out though from my experience.
          700g Mini-Monster tank

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          • #6
            Yeah, much lighter than rubble
            http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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            • #7
              MATRIX......all the way!
              5 gal baby hecqui grow out
              7 gal baby compressicps
              14 bio cube fry tank, multies-orange leleupi-telmatochromis
              4 tank rack- 30 cubes. Shellies, mulities-brevis-telmatochromis-caudopunctaus
              100 gal mixed community tank
              125 Tropheus black bembas

              Tanngankia cichlids what else

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              • #8
                easier to manage too.

                I wouldn't use rubble in a fw tank, I have been debating using the seachem pond matrix but I want it to go anaerobic on me so it's a different story.
                700g Mini-Monster tank

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                • #9
                  So, what I'm hearing from yall is that the bio balls are ok to keep using & that yall are still using them. Just keep them & the sump clean & continue as usual. Works for me! Yalls input means more to me than the random internet searches on other forums (and I don't have to buy anything else)! Why has most of what I've read from 2009 to present been less than enthusiastic about them, tho? What does the rock do that the bio balls dont or does it even matter with present my set-up?
                  180g - 2 Red Oscars, 1 Tiger Oscar, 1 JD, Convicts, convicts & more convicts
                  75g - 1 Silver Aro, 1 Mean Koi Angel
                  50g - Various platy & mollies
                  10g - 1 Green Spotted Puffer

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                  • #10
                    A lot of people don't use bio balls because they are expensive compared to lace rock. I used them for years in all my wet/drys and never had any problems.

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                    • #11
                      Yeah, the initial cost can be high but since you've already got that out of the way by getting the bio balls with the tank, you've got nothing to worry about.
                      http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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                      • #12
                        All bio media work the same, essentially providing surfaces for beneficial nitrifying bacteria to grow on. As Jacob said, bio balls tend to be the more expensive option.
                        http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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                        • #13
                          Makes better sense now. Thanks yall.

                          I also read more than one person say they are a nitrate nightmare, but I've kept a close eye on mine and they're perfectly fine (same levels as my other tanks without bio balls). Gotta be careful what you read, I suppose, but that's why I asked yall. Appreciate the input immensely. I'll stick with what I have & be thankful the bio balls came with the tank!
                          180g - 2 Red Oscars, 1 Tiger Oscar, 1 JD, Convicts, convicts & more convicts
                          75g - 1 Silver Aro, 1 Mean Koi Angel
                          50g - Various platy & mollies
                          10g - 1 Green Spotted Puffer

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                          • #14
                            Fish are nitrate nightmares.

                            You're on the right track. Test regularly in the beginning to see where your nitrate levels are right before you do a water change so that you have an idea of whether your water change schedule (frequency, % of tank volume removed) is adequate to keep nitrates at a safe level.
                            http://www.facebook.com/DAScolorado

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                            • #15
                              Thanks, Sunny. Hubby tests our tanks weekly. About once a month I take samples to Chad at our local PetCo and have him to the same just to make sure we aren't reading things incorrectly. I probably look like a fruit cake carrying a bunch of little cups in the store, but they're used to seeing it now, lol.

                              Water changes (aside from replacing the water that normal vacuum cleaning or evaporation removes) haven't been done regularly due to nothing being off, but earlier this month, we did 100% water changes for all of the tanks when we moved everyone around. The parameters are still good 3 weeks into the moves so we must not be doing too bad of a job. I'm very happy that after only being back into the hobby since September we haven't had any major issues and no deaths, except for the suicidal jumping Leporinus last year.

                              I guess even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and then! I better find some wood to knock on...
                              180g - 2 Red Oscars, 1 Tiger Oscar, 1 JD, Convicts, convicts & more convicts
                              75g - 1 Silver Aro, 1 Mean Koi Angel
                              50g - Various platy & mollies
                              10g - 1 Green Spotted Puffer

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