Ph is a complicated and interconnected parameter to watch and control as it hinges upon numerous variables. Using it as your controlling variable tends to be very tough and can cause frustration. TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) is something that is far more effective in managing this aspect. The higher the TDS in a given water, the higher it tends to buffer (shift back) in Ph. This is what causes our high Ph in Houston (we have a ridiculously high TDS (350-400 ppm). Often referred to as 'hard' water, while on the other hand 'soft' water as found in the low Ph area of the Amazon has literally no TDS. Water with no minerals whatsoever (Pure RO water) should naturally be 7.0 on the Ph scale. The rotting vegetation naturally acidifies the water in the Amazon, thus lowering the Ph to 4-6 as the water is mineral poor and has no ability to buffer back up. One issue that also occurs is that bacteria are severely limited in water below a 6 Ph. The Nitrogen cycle starts to fall apart and Ammonia is shifted into Ammonium which is taken up by plants. It will read the same as Ammonia though on tests. To achieve a lowered Ph, one must reduce the TDS of your water dramatically, then utilize something to lower the PH of the water once it loses its ability to buffer itself back up. I have personally found it difficult to lower and maintain the Ph of water with a TDS of over 100-150 ppm. Investigating the natural parameters wherein certain species are found can help in determining the TDS and Ph that would be desirable for the species naturally.
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That would be my recommendation. Smaller tanks are far easier to maintain and might be a better option to start and get your feet a bit wetter. Try it with a 10 gallon and just have fun playing around, once you get the tests/equipment/Ph shifting down you'll feel far more confidant in trying it with a much larger set up.In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king.
Desiderius Erasmus
GHAC President
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Originally posted by gambs View PostSo basically ph is a pain in the *** to maintain and I should just hope they breed on their own in my tank.
i think i said it in other posts, but personally i say a stable pH (high or low) is better than chasing an ideal. fish adjust to their environment. if the environment is clean, stable and satisfies their breeding preferences (like caves for cave spawners), the fish may breed.
it is not definite they will. some species breed far more readily than others. but constant movement of water parameters will have no desire to breed.
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I have bred rams in Houston tap water before, just had a bag of peat running in the filter to soften the water. Also had a ton of driftwood in the tank that leached a lot of tannins... as everyone else has been saying, just leave the pH alone, and feed your fish some high quality food and keep up on water changes.
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Originally posted by Roshan8768 View PostI have bred rams in Houston tap water before, just had a bag of peat running in the filter to soften the water. Also had a ton of driftwood in the tank that leached a lot of tannins... as everyone else has been saying, just leave the pH alone, and feed your fish some high quality food and keep up on water changes.
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Originally posted by troy tucker View PostRoy gives Great Sound advice. Breeding is not as much about low PH. It can help with hatching for some fish. Breeding just takes time. With a trick or two.In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king.
Desiderius Erasmus
GHAC President
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