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  • #16
    Ph is a complicated and interconnected parameter to watch and control as it hinges upon numerous variables. Using it as your controlling variable tends to be very tough and can cause frustration. TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) is something that is far more effective in managing this aspect. The higher the TDS in a given water, the higher it tends to buffer (shift back) in Ph. This is what causes our high Ph in Houston (we have a ridiculously high TDS (350-400 ppm). Often referred to as 'hard' water, while on the other hand 'soft' water as found in the low Ph area of the Amazon has literally no TDS. Water with no minerals whatsoever (Pure RO water) should naturally be 7.0 on the Ph scale. The rotting vegetation naturally acidifies the water in the Amazon, thus lowering the Ph to 4-6 as the water is mineral poor and has no ability to buffer back up. One issue that also occurs is that bacteria are severely limited in water below a 6 Ph. The Nitrogen cycle starts to fall apart and Ammonia is shifted into Ammonium which is taken up by plants. It will read the same as Ammonia though on tests. To achieve a lowered Ph, one must reduce the TDS of your water dramatically, then utilize something to lower the PH of the water once it loses its ability to buffer itself back up. I have personally found it difficult to lower and maintain the Ph of water with a TDS of over 100-150 ppm. Investigating the natural parameters wherein certain species are found can help in determining the TDS and Ph that would be desirable for the species naturally.
    In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king.
    Desiderius Erasmus
    GHAC President

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    • #17
      So basically ph is a pain in the *** to maintain and I should just hope they breed on their own in my tank.

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      • #18
        That would be my recommendation. Smaller tanks are far easier to maintain and might be a better option to start and get your feet a bit wetter. Try it with a 10 gallon and just have fun playing around, once you get the tests/equipment/Ph shifting down you'll feel far more confidant in trying it with a much larger set up.
        In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king.
        Desiderius Erasmus
        GHAC President

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        • #19
          Originally posted by gambs View Post
          So basically ph is a pain in the *** to maintain and I should just hope they breed on their own in my tank.
          In my opinion....yes in regards to not chasing pH. Mnemenoi is spot on and has helped me learn a lot more. the water hardness does have a big role in how easily the pH can be adjusted and sustained. If the water is hard, like most houston water, then your water changes will just rebuffer the water (unless you continually strip the water and make it soft). chemicals to drive the pH down would be temporary, could cause swings in pH, and be a waste of money. the water would readjust back to its own pH level.

          i think i said it in other posts, but personally i say a stable pH (high or low) is better than chasing an ideal. fish adjust to their environment. if the environment is clean, stable and satisfies their breeding preferences (like caves for cave spawners), the fish may breed.

          it is not definite they will. some species breed far more readily than others. but constant movement of water parameters will have no desire to breed.

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          • #20
            I have bred rams in Houston tap water before, just had a bag of peat running in the filter to soften the water. Also had a ton of driftwood in the tank that leached a lot of tannins... as everyone else has been saying, just leave the pH alone, and feed your fish some high quality food and keep up on water changes.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Roshan8768 View Post
              I have bred rams in Houston tap water before, just had a bag of peat running in the filter to soften the water. Also had a ton of driftwood in the tank that leached a lot of tannins... as everyone else has been saying, just leave the pH alone, and feed your fish some high quality food and keep up on water changes.
              I have the driftwood as well as river stones and I feed them new life spectrum cichlid pellets. I will keep up with the WCs and see what happens.

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              • #22
                Roy gives Great Sound advice. Breeding is not as much about low PH. It can help with hatching for some fish. Breeding just takes time. With a trick or two.
                Nothing Kills Evil Like a Sharp Stick...

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by troy tucker View Post
                  Roy gives Great Sound advice. Breeding is not as much about low PH. It can help with hatching for some fish. Breeding just takes time. With a trick or two.
                  Thanks, just trying to pass on what I have picked up over the years, lol. I will say that the idea of trying to breed 'soft water' fish in low TDS neutral water has occurred once or twice with me just to see if it would actually work... I suppose its the biologist in me. I can say in this specific regard you are far better off as the Bolivian Ram is well adjusted to far higher Ph, TDS, and Temp variance then their brighter and far more finicky cousin. All should work well in your favor. Large tank, live foods, dark areas to hide. I might even suggest a decaying leaf bed (Indian Almond Leaves/IAL on the Planted tank forum are cheap and safe) might prompt a suited couple to spawn for you. Dithers would certainly help in this regard and diffusing the light (floating plants, copious driftwood, tannin stained water) might make them feel a bit more secure.
                  In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king.
                  Desiderius Erasmus
                  GHAC President

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