Slowly starting a salty tank

[eklikewhoa]

yeah, you need that on there.

[dead wait]

I'm still confused about the need for two drains. Also, from looking at the pictures, it appears that both drain lines and the return line are all drilled at the same height. Why would one be called the main drain and the other an emergency drain if there are drilled the same? I'm not being a smart arse, just asking because I have not gotten this far with my setup yet.

[dead wait]

If you look at this photo, maybe you can understand my question better. If the water drains below the so called Main Drain, what good is the other drain? Again, i'm only asking for future knowledge.

[Bedlamer]

Are schedule 80 (gray) and schedule 40 (white) bits and pieces interchangable or do you have to stick to 80 with 80 stuff and 40 with 40 stuff? Anyone know?

[dead wait]

They are for two completely different purposes.

[eklikewhoa]

Thickness is different so the inner diameter would not work.

[Bedlamer]

If you look at this photo, maybe you can understand my question better. If the water drains below the so called Main Drain, what good is the other drain? Again, i'm only asking for future knowledge.

The OP had mentioned earlier the middle drain (the emergency) will have an elbow to put it 1.5" above the main. Therefore if for some reason the main drain gets blocked, after the level rises 1.5 " it will drain back into the sump, and not just over flow the tank. If the main drain was blocked and had no emergency drain the return pump would keep pumping the contents of the sump into the DT most likely resulting in an overflow.

[dead wait]

The OP had mentioned earlier the middle drain (the emergency) will have an elbow to put it 1.5" above the main. Therefore if for some reason the main drain gets blocked, after the level rises 1.5 " it will drain back into the sump, and not just over flow the tank. If the main drain was blocked and had no emergency drain the return pump would keep pumping the contents of the sump into the DT most likely resulting in an overflow.

That makes more sense. Who or what determines where to drill the holes? Height from top of tank to center line of hole.

[myjohnson]

The size of the return pump and the water line.

[Andrew_B]

Sorry, was at work - Bedlamer has it right

[myjohnson]

When is this thing expected to touch water?

[Andrew_B]

Shii, I wish I knew. It's getting painful, waiting. Waiting on my mag3 to get delivered mainly. The RO/DI is all hooked up, but I think it just has a micron filter and a basic carbon filter with DI. I have the GAC cartridge and the chloramines one on the way. Once the mag comes in, I'll get all the plumbing squared away and cemented. and water running through it to see if everything is looking good, then I'll siphon it out and toss in the saltwater.

I should start filling up tubs of water, my faucet is only pushing 20psi through the RO/DI, so it may take a while to get the 50ish gals I need

[myjohnson]

Yup, 50g is going to take all day basically.

[Bedlamer]

I should start filling up tubs of water, my faucet is only pushing 20psi through the RO/DI, so it may take a while to get the 50ish gals I need

Have a look at this video from BRS on booster pumps for RO/DI systems

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHEnHpdm1Qw

The Cliff's note version is PSI above 50 is desired. A PSI below 40 will dramatically increase your waste water and more importantly cause a large consumption of your DI resin, which is the expensive bit. Also as you mentioned, is the time factor.

Pump is $99.99 http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...ster-pump.html

or with an install kit $139.99 http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...-pump-kit.html

Next piece of gear to consider is the whole house 20 kW permanently installed automatic standby natural gas generator.

[eklikewhoa]

My new house is definitely getting the natural gas generator, keeps the fish alive and comfort level for the humans.

That is one thing I have sold to the misses and we have factored that into our cost.