WTB Lights, CO2 system

[Krisvalkyrie]

I am starting a 75 gallon planted tank.

I need much better lights than the tank comes with, as well as a CO2 system.

I am a graduate student with less than stellar income, so I can't exactly afford the top notch stuff.   So what I am looking for (since I don't know much about lights) is the least expensive item that I can get that will still do a good job.  Function is more important than price, but I cannot afford to have function as the only criteria in this. :)

[J-WS6]

Re: WTB Lights, CO2 system

have you looked into a DIY C02 system? I know it's not as reliable or productive as a pressurized system, but if your looking to save money, it may not be a bad idea

[schance]

Re: WTB Lights, CO2 system

dont do a diy it will mess up and u will never want to mess with it again save up you can buy either a paintball or go to a aoc they are cheaper than buy from the fish stores but thats only for the actual tank for soleniod and reg the cheapest is prob going to be ebay then the diffuser jus buy a new one and the silicone tubing u can find anywere and for lights u could rig a double tube from a home depot and dont say ur just a student because i dnt all the same stuff with jus a drill gun its cheaper and you learn stuff in the process

[PhishPhreek]

Re: WTB Lights, CO2 system

I like my DIY CO[sub:0da9c6eeeb]2[/sub:0da9c6eeeb] system because when its finished I can drink it

Honey - make mine Mede

2 one gallon milk jugs
a standard airline checkvalve
3' airline tubing
air stone or power head
a package of wine or champagne yeast
3 pounds of honey
a lemon
some bleach
zip drops

You should be able to find the honey, lemon and bleach at any local supermarket. For the jug look in the orange juice or milk aisle. The Yeast can be found at a local homebrewing supply shop.  Airline and fittings can be found at the local fish shop

Cleaning up:

The first thing to do is get everything good and clean. Wash the jug, with hot soap and water. Make sure to rinse off the soap very well. Fill the jug with warm water and add a 1/2 tsp of the bleach, wait a few minutes and pour it out. Rinse the jug with clean water. Rinse it again. If it still smells like bleach, then rinse it again. Rinse it one more time and add zip drops.
Drill a 3/16th dia hole in the cap and force the airline tube into the hole
Cut the tube off near the cap and incert the check valve.  Connect the far end of the air line to the airstone or power head.

Boil some water:

The next step is to boil some water. Take a 2 quart sauce pan and add about a pint of water and the juice of the lemon to it. If you want to flavor your mead with some spices add them too. Put the pot on the stove and bring it to a boil. After it begins to boil, remove it from the heat and add in the honey. Stir until all of the honey is dissolved. Set it aside and allow it to cool.

Wake up the yeast.

The yeast in the package you purchased is asleep. You will need to wake it up and get it ready to turn your honey and water into mead. Take a cup of warm water (80-100F) and add 3 tbs of the honey mixture to it. Add the package of yeast and stir well. In about 10 or 15 minutes the yeast will have been awakened from it's dormant state and will have started to foam and bubble.

Add the yeast.

Pour the honey mixture into the jug, add cold water until it is full to the jug's "shoulder". When this has cooled down to below 90F you can add the yeast and water mixture to it. Put the cap on the jug.

Wait 2 weeks (half way there)

This is the hard part. Place the airstone or powerhead  into the aquarium.
place the jug of mead into a warm dark place (under the aquarium) for about 2 weeks. After 2 weeks you will see that there is a layer of sediment at the bottom of the jug. This is the yeast which has settled out of your mead. Clean another jug the same way you did in step 1. Carefully pour the mead (without splashing) into the new jug while leaving the sediment behind.Top off the new jug with clean water and replace cap.  This would be a good time to clean out the orignal jug and start another batch.  

Wait for another 2 or 3 weeks   (Time to drink)

It is now time to drink your mead. Carefully pour the mead into your favorite drinking vessel and admire it. Carefully examine the color and smell the fine aroma. taste your mead, enjoy it.  I prefer mine Ice Cold.

[Krisvalkyrie]

Re: WTB Lights, CO2 system

LOL

Thanks Phish,

I make my own mead :)

I mostly brew metheglyns.  Show up at the GHAC meeting and try some.

I use honey and yeast for my 10 gallon planted, but I don't think it is as effective for a 75 gallon (not really having the time to set up one of my 6 gallon carboys...but it could work...)

Schance, couldn't really follow you on the lights bit.  I just don't know enough about what type of lighting I need to buy.  I am not afraid of using tools - Hell, I have more tools than most of the guys I know.  I just don't know **** about light for plants, so would prefer the awuarium stuff, just because the info is geared towards the use.

Kris

[Mzungu]

Re: WTB Lights, CO2 system

Hey, Kris - how long is the 75? Are you looking for any particular kind of light, or are you open? (Power compact, fluorescent, high-output fluorescent, etc?)

[Krisvalkyrie]

Re: WTB Lights, CO2 system

It is 48" long.

I just don't know what I need for lights.  I need something that will output enough light for moderate to high light plants.  I would either take 1 48" light, or possibly 2 24" lights...

I am new to the planted thing.  I have plants though that are melting and dying due to lack of adequate light, so I want to get them in a proper set up with good lights (not measley 15 watt lights) and CO2.

Do you have any advice on the matter?

I want something with reasonable energy efficiency and adequate lighting.

[schance]

Re: WTB Lights, CO2 system

sorry i cant type for **** what i was saying was its not your best option but what you could do is buy a 48 in double tube flurescent fixture.  the 75 is 4ft long and so is the light.  

the thing is for plants (and corals) your best option is going to be a metal halide but they are expensive.  

your second best option would either be a compact floresecnt or a t-5 (t-5 is a more advance version of the florescent tube it has a smaller diameter but more lumens)  now the diff between the to lights it that a P.C. (power compact) and a t-5 is the the p.c. has better water penetration so if you have some smaller low to the ground type plants u might want to go with that but the t-5, although not having as much penetration give off more lumens so for larger taller plants this might be better.

now the deal is metal halide power compact and t-5 everything is going to cost alot more because they are not mass produce where as the 48 in double flurescent is very common and its in most larger buildings and the tubes are also alot cheaper but you get what you pay for also you coud get 2 of those strips and do 4 flourescent tube but ya that is essintailly your option and u also have vho but i wouldnt even mess with that

[Krisvalkyrie]

Re: WTB Lights, CO2 system

Thanks.

I think I want to go for power compacts or T5 then, I have both taller plants and smaller high light plants.

Mostly I was looking to see if someone was looking to sell lights used, as well as get advice as to what type of lights to look for.

Kris