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I could catch some slack about this, but I dont' measure or take any readings on my tanks before adding fish. I keep an eye on the ph ocassionaly, but not constantly. I try to keep the general temp in most of my tanks around 80 degrees, and provide the most filtration I can per tank.
CF
Truth is the cement that holds the bricks and stones of a sane and civilized society together. Remove the former and the latter will crumble.
I've never been one to test all the parameters of my water but...
- Make sure you have a well-established system going. (i.e. bio-spira, or transferring media from an established tank to the new tank and let it run for a few days before adding the fish)
- Buff your ph with baking soda (my tanks are at 8.4-8.5 range
- Add Epsom or Aquarium salt accordingly (optional)
Thanks for the quick response. Â I have pretty much approached the issue like the first three responses--reasonable water temperature, overfiltrating, seeding filters and let it fly. Â I am sure there are benefits to being more technical than that.
You would want Ammonia/Nitrites to be 0.
If you test for it Nitrates should be 40-60ppms or lower.
pH is best kept 7.8 or higher
KH I try to keep about 12-16
GH about 14-16
Temps I keep about 78-80
As long as your tank is cycled and the pH is decent just drip acclimate the fish to keep them from going into shock and you should be fine.
Nitrate as low as possible do not get more than 80 ppm
Nitrite and Ammonia 0 ppm
Waterchange minimal 50% bi-weekly, I would do more if possible. Most I know perform weekly 50-75%
What I do when getting new Tropheus is check the sellers tank conditions and then also measure the shipping water. Â I never want to have more than 0.5 difference without acclimation. Â Acclimate by mixing in new 50% water every 20-30 minutes until the pH is within the 0.5
Always temperature acclimate first by floating your bags for about 30 minutes. Â Then open and test the pH and either net and realese into the tank, or start acclimating.
380G For Sale $3000 Acrylic tank & stand 300G Petrochromis Trewavasae and Tropheus mpimbwe Red Cheek & Duboisi 180G For Sale $1,100 Oceanic Cherry with Stand, T5HO Lights, (2) Eheim 2262 150G Tropheus Annectens Kekese & Ikola
Geoff....increase those water changes! I have been doing close to 100% twice a week and you won't believe the difference I have noticed in breeding as well as personality!
I'm using the wet/dry that continues to circulate even when powered down.
Large carbon canister that I run the tap through before it gets into the tank.
If I question the tap I use Amquel+plus/NovaAqua+plus but in small amounts.
I would do alot more waterchanges if I had time. Â The problem is not getting the water out because I am using 1" ID tubing with a Aqua Clear 902 powerhead. Â Its the refilling that is taking so much time. Â All I got is the kitchen sink to refill on.
Between work 7:30-5:30, Kid 6-9:30, leaves Fish Tank time to about 9:30 to Midnight. Â Then sleep time midnight to 615.
That 300 gallon usually takes me 3 hours.
But...I got a plan...in the works...
I do however 100% completely agree that the more waterchanges you can do, the better off the fish are. Â NO DOUBT!!
380G For Sale $3000 Acrylic tank & stand 300G Petrochromis Trewavasae and Tropheus mpimbwe Red Cheek & Duboisi 180G For Sale $1,100 Oceanic Cherry with Stand, T5HO Lights, (2) Eheim 2262 150G Tropheus Annectens Kekese & Ikola
I am thinking that Geoff will be doing soon is putting a bucket under the fosset in his bathtub, which as it fills with water he inserts a Eheim 1250 pump which pumps the water from the barrel back to his 300, and then he runs a second line from the sink into the 300 too. Â This should fill it up a little faster
What fish do Jesper have 180 WC T. Moorii Chilambo +1 Petro trewavasae.
110 Cyps, WC Xeno Spilopterus Kipili WC/F1/F2 T. sp red Kiku
58 S. Decorus "The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money." -Margaret Thatcher
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