what are your opinions on how, what and when to feed them when I introduce them into a new tank?
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A lot would depend on how long they been in the US and their over all condition.
I would wait to see them before making any determinative conclusions on what to do.
But generally, no rocks, no food, no lights for at least two days.
Then a little bit of food to see how eats. If they all eat you good. Over the course of two-three weeks increase to full feeding level. If they are a little skinny I would feed them a little extra until they gain their body mass back, could take 3-4 months if they come in really really bad.
If they all eat, and all looks good. First lights come on. Then rocks. Then all you got to do is watch them and make sure they don't kill each other.
Good luck dude, I got dibs on fry!I ate my fish that died.
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i would put them in their own tank before introducing them to a current tank.300+RR (8-10 ft x 30"x30") - Waiting to find it... Lake Tanganyikan
225RR (72"x24"Wx29"H) DSA - Lake Tanganyikan WC Murago
210RR (60"x24"Wx32"H) AGE - Lake Tanganyikan WC IN PROGRESS
160RR 1/2 cylinder (60"x30"Wx30"H) AGE - Altum Biotope IN PROGRESS
90RR (36"x24"Wx25"H) NEO DSA - Rio Meta Biotope
90RR (36"x24"Wx25"H) NEO DSA - Lake Valencia Biotope
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2x46 Bowfront- Q/Holding Tank
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I agree that it is always better for new fish to ahve their own tank not only for QT purpose, but also gives them time to adjust to your aquarium conditions, and if they dont look good, you can be medicating them without worry of your other fishes.380G For Sale $3000 Acrylic tank & stand
300G Petrochromis Trewavasae and Tropheus mpimbwe Red Cheek & Duboisi
180G For Sale $1,100 Oceanic Cherry with Stand, T5HO Lights, (2) Eheim 2262
150G Tropheus Annectens Kekese & Ikola
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I worry about this as I will have to add mine to an existing tank with fish and rocks. I am gonna go with lights out and with the amount of dithers in there..I hope I am fine. I probably wont feed anybody for about two days during this time as well.250gallon-Wild Angels, community
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Originally posted by newb View PostI worry about this as I will have to add mine to an existing tank with fish and rocks. I am gonna go with lights out and with the amount of dithers in there..I hope I am fine. I probably wont feed anybody for about two days during this time as well.
same boat here
but with them in the US and in their own tank at the sellers place for a little bit it might be a plus
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If you guys are stuck doing it that way, then I highly recommend you to treat with metro (it's not as hard on the fish), lights out completely (cover the tank), and remove all rocks. Make sure the colony reestablish itself.
Tropheus are bad as is when adding new fish to a colony....I can only imagine what a petro would do. But I'm sure the ditter fishes will help a lot.
Maybe you guys might want to contact Peter the Panda. He has added petros to that big @$$ custom tank he got.I ate my fish that died.
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Originally posted by myjohnson View PostIf you guys are stuck doing it that way, then I highly recommend you to treat with metro (it's not as hard on the fish), lights out completely (cover the tank), and remove all rocks. Make sure the colony reestablish itself.300g - Petrochromis Texas "Red Fin" Longola, Petrochromis Red Bulu, Tropheus Red Rainbow Kansanga.
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Originally posted by newb View PostI worry about this as I will have to add mine to an existing tank with fish and rocks. I am gonna go with lights out and with the amount of dithers in there..I hope I am fine. I probably wont feed anybody for about two days during this time as well.Originally posted by gotticgs View Postsame boat hereScarecrow : I haven't got a brain... only straw.
Dorothy : How can you talk if you haven't got a brain?
Scarecrow: I don't know... But some people without brains do an awful lot of talking... don't they?
Dorothy: Yes, I guess you're right.
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Just remember this.. with Petro's it is much more pronounced, your stronger fish will dominate and eat all the food.
While your new guys are trying to acclimate to maybee just eating flake food or something, your other acclmiatetd hounds will devour the food, and keep the new guys stressed even more.
The new dudes are dealing with stress of transport, new water, new grouping condition, and new food. It would help a lot if you can get some of the food the seller has them eating now.
It may work, but in general, I have found that you have to QT and have them going strong before introducing them. This way they are all on equal ground...then decoarate the tank and hope for the best.380G For Sale $3000 Acrylic tank & stand
300G Petrochromis Trewavasae and Tropheus mpimbwe Red Cheek & Duboisi
180G For Sale $1,100 Oceanic Cherry with Stand, T5HO Lights, (2) Eheim 2262
150G Tropheus Annectens Kekese & Ikola
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Let me share a horror story...
I bought 20 or so F1 Moops from Jolley several years ago. I loved it, and started getting the WC itch so I got my LFS to order from (I won't say). Fish came in...got plunked into the main moop tank instead of QT, and less than a month later the fish start dropping like flies. I lost all the WC and over 1/2 the F1s. From then on, all new-comers get 3 to 4 weeks of QT time - even if I have to set up a tank where I don't want to.300+RR (8-10 ft x 30"x30") - Waiting to find it... Lake Tanganyikan
225RR (72"x24"Wx29"H) DSA - Lake Tanganyikan WC Murago
210RR (60"x24"Wx32"H) AGE - Lake Tanganyikan WC IN PROGRESS
160RR 1/2 cylinder (60"x30"Wx30"H) AGE - Altum Biotope IN PROGRESS
90RR (36"x24"Wx25"H) NEO DSA - Rio Meta Biotope
90RR (36"x24"Wx25"H) NEO DSA - Lake Valencia Biotope
__________________________
2x46 Bowfront- Q/Holding Tank
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