Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

75g planted tank journal

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 75g planted tank journal

    First off, sorry for the long post, its about 2.5 weeks into it.

    So about a month ago I purchased a 75g 48"x18"x20" that came with a stand and a cascade 700 canister filter. My plan was to create a high tech planted tank with co2 and everything. I loved the carpet look and that was my main goal at the time. I then started to think about what kind of livestock I wanted to keep. After days and hrs of research, I came to conclusion that I wanted to care for discus. I then decided to stick with a low tech planted tank so I can have higher quality s care for the discus instead of having to worry about the plants too.

    So I flooded the tank about 2.5weeks ago. About 1.5 weeks prior to that, my good friend (JAYGEE) let me setup my filter on his fully cycled tank and also gave me about 5-10g of his water. He also added the fluval bio max which is suppose to build beneficial bacteria and help with ammonia and nitrite spikes. The rest of the water is 100% RO water.

    So prior to deciding on building a discus tank I already purchased 4x 9L bags of ADA Amazonian which I probably would of went with regardless of it being a low tech tank. I also purchased a AquaticLife 54wattx4bulb T5 HO with moon lights and built in timer. I wish I could of purchased a two bulb to save me some money but I figure it shouldn't be an issue, because if I fail at discus I will be going back with my original build of a high tech tank.So since I am using ADA and I know if buffers so I wanted to flood it as soon as possible to get it cycled, so I just ended up putting a few low light hard plants inside.

    On the first initial setup of plants
    Jungle val
    Rotala indicia
    Lugwigia
    Broad leaf sag
    Java moss

    My first initial water parameters using API liquid test:
    Ph <6.0 (as low
    as the kit goes)
    Nitrite - 0 ppm
    Nitrate - 10 ppm
    Ammonia - 1.0
    GH/KH - both at 143.7ppm

    So far there has been no ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate spikes. The only thing fluctuated was my nitrate. After 3-4 days it went up 20ppm, and another 3-4 day passes and nitrate is at 40ppm. I do 15g water change with aged tab water with API dechlorinator which also removes chlormine. The nitrate went down to 20ppm. The ph went from 6.0 to 7.0 but within 2 days dropped to 6.4 and every other day it fluctuates from 6.4-6.6. And ammonia went down to 0.50 but slowly rose up to 2.0 never going higher.

    The driftwood didn't float, I was able to boil the top half, so it was boiled for 6hrs. I then put it in the tub and filled it with boiling hot water and I let that sit for another 2hrs. The Damn thing didn't float so I ended up attaching a few rocks to it to keep it down. I also purchased two nice sized slate rocks which were boiled for just a few mins.

    Initial setup pic off the tank.



    This weekend I added more plants immediately dropping the nitrates down to 10ppm.

    New plants added
    Vals
    Dwarf sag
    Red combia (was cheap and looked really nice but didn't know much about them until I researched them when I got home. I know, they might not make it)
    Crypt wendtii

    I was really hopeing that the dwarf sag would give me that carpet look but I can see now that it will more then likely wont work out as the ones I bought were 6+in tall which I trimmed it about 1-2inch down. I will more then likly be pulling them all out and adding narrow leaf micro swords a try as they look exactly like DHG. Part of my goal is still accomplishing a carpet look.

    On my first intial setup I was running only 2x 54w 10k bulbs. One of them weren't producing the light it was suppose to but after some wiggling it finally worked. I then realized this weekend that the one that was having problems was till not producing enough light still and was greatly dimmed. I just assume that it hasnt been working since the beginning as my plants where not growing well and not in the best condition. I purchased a replacement and also purchased 2x 54w 6,700k bulbs and I added both to the fixture. I knew it was a bit much but thought I give it a shot. The next day it looks like some diatom algae has growth on some of my vals. I immediately turned off the 2x 6700k ones and left the 10k ones on. I had my lights set for 8hrs and 1hr of moonlight for viewing pleasures. I changed the light period to 6hrs a day and still the same amount of time for the moon light. I also dosed seachem flourish just yesterday despite having some algae. I figure the cut in light period will help but correct me if I am wrong.

    Also a few days ago, I got impatient and researched that danios are damn near
    impossible to kill. I wanted to make sure it does not give my tank a negative
    impact on the BB so I added only 6 and feeding them only frozen brine
    shrimp, bloodworms, and this veggie that came with the lunchbox mix from
    petsmart once a day. They are doing great but two of them are now bloated. No scales are
    protruding. Maybe there pregnant? Anyways, they are all very active and eat like
    pigs.

    A few more things to add in the future when ready is a eheim 2217 and two 250watt heater, one on each side. For plants the only thing I plan to add is the narrow leaf micro swords for carpet. For livestock I plan to add 8-10 rainbow fish and a few dozen amano and cherry shrimp to pick up the leftovers from the discus. The driftwood in there creates lots of shelter for them and I hope they will reproduce faster then the discus can clean them out. Discus will be the very last livestock to add.

    Few conerns if someone dont mind helping me is, do you think two 54w T5 HO 10k is efficient to grow my plants to the fullest without creating a algae problem. If not, what kind of bulbs should I use? Another concern is where are my ammonia, nirite, nitrate spikes at? Is the fluval biomax preventing that? I doubt my tank is cycled just from leaving my filter on my friends cycled tank for 1.5 weeks as well as adding the 5-10g of cycled water he gave me or could it be? Also on the algae part, how should I go about it assuming my lighting is okay? Should I still use flourish once a week? Cut my photoperiod down even more? I'll try to take a pic later when I get home.

    My current parameters
    PH - 6.4
    Ammonia -
    1.0ppm
    Nirite - 0ppm
    Nirate - 10ppm

    Pic of how it currently sits.
    ra9y7uge.jpg
    Any comments, recommendation and advice is welcome and appericated!
    Thanks!

    Sorry for any typos and errors.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by wesleh; 07-28-2013, 09:12 PM.

  • #2
    You might have regular sag and not dwarf sag. Dwarf sag under optimal conditions won't get tall.

    Comment


    • #3
      It was labeled as dwarf sag when I purchased it. It was under low lighting at the time of purchase, so maybe that caused it to grow tall? Doesn't matter, they will be coming out soon.

      Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

      Comment


      • #4
        Dang it, just notice half my post is missing

        EDIT: Fixed!

        Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
        Last edited by wesleh; 06-12-2013, 04:54 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          I have always liked the carpet look. I think Hairgrass looks good. The tank looks great!
          Nothing Kills Evil Like a Sharp Stick...

          Comment


          • #6
            I would either use one 250w heater or two 100w heaters on each side. Two 250w heaters is a bit much. Shrimp will become quick meals even if there's shelter for them. If you really want to try to keep them together, I would let the RCS build up a large colony to about 40+ and then add the discus, but it'll take a few months. Two 54w T5 HO 10k is plenty efficient to grow your plants as most of them are low/med light plants. It may continue to create an algae problem until your plants start to fill in. You can add nerites or o-cats to help control the diatoms.

            From your parameters, it looks like your tank is cycled, but not ready for fish. The ammonia spikes is from the ADA Amazonia. I would wait until your ammonia reads 0ppm before adding more fish. Should be anywhere from a few weeks to months. Fluval Biomax won't prevent anything. I don't know what you were told, but biomax is just filter media. It's the same as any other media and has the same function... To host beneficial bacteria (BB). BB colonizes on the media and turns ammonia (very harmful to fish even in low ppm) into nitrites (also very harmful in low ppm) and then into nitrates (not as harmful until it reaches very high ppm). BB also turns ammonium (harmless form of ammonia) into nitrite and then nitrate.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hairgrass is cool and so are micro swords, but tend to grow very slow submerged. They usually grow faster emersed or if you float them.

              I doubt my tank is cycled just from leaving
              my filter on my friends cycled tank for 1.5 weeks as well as adding the 5-10g of
              cycled water he gave me or could it be? Also on the algae part, how should I go
              about it assuming my lighting is okay? Should I still use flourish once a week?
              Cut my photoperiod down even more? I'll try to take a pic later when I get home
              for everyones input on it.
              Leaving your filter on cycled tank for 1.5 weeks is enough to get BB colonizing. Water actually holds little to no BB. You should've gotten some of his substrate or media. Used filter floss is usually great to grab. Put it in your tank and give it a good squeeze and swish in your tank. Some people have good luck fending off diatoms with a lights out period for about a week. I wouldn't recommend it if your plants aren't in good condition. Flourish is just micro ferts, you need macro ferts too if you want your plants to look their best. Once a week is fine. With micro ferts, I like to dose every other day or every three days.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by troy tucker View Post
                I have always liked the carpet look. I think Hairgrass looks good. The tank looks great!
                Thanks! In place of hairgrass I'll be using narrow leaf micro swords which IMO looks exactly like hairgrass

                Originally posted by mistahoo View Post
                I would either use one 250w heater or two 100w heaters on each side. Two 250w heaters is a bit much. Shrimp will become quick meals even if there's shelter for them. If you really want to try to keep them together, I would let the RCS build up a large colony to about 40+ and then add the discus, but it'll take a few months. Two 54w T5 HO 10k is plenty efficient to grow your plants as most of them are low/med light plants. It may continue to create an algae problem until your plants start to fill in. You can add nerites or o-cats to help control the diatoms.

                From your parameters, it looks like your tank is cycled, but not ready for fish. The ammonia spikes is from the ADA Amazonia. I would wait until your ammonia reads 0ppm before adding more fish. Should be anywhere from a few weeks to months. Fluval Biomax won't prevent anything. I don't know what you were told, but biomax is just filter media. It's the same as any other media and has the same function... To host beneficial bacteria (BB). BB colonizes on the media and turns ammonia (very harmful to fish even in low ppm) into nitrites (also very harmful in low ppm) and then into nitrates (not as harmful until it reaches very high ppm). BB also turns ammonium (harmless form of ammonia) into nitrite and then nitrate.
                Thanks for the advice! I'll go add some more nerite snails.

                I forgot to mention when my friend added the biomax, it looks like this, link below. Will that grow BB on it?http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...AvailInUS%2FNo
                It was on at the very bottom of the filter next to the carbon.

                I additionally added this biomax http://www.petco.com/product/102413/...ter-Media.aspx
                "Biomax helps reduce ammonia and nitrite. Plus, the rings allow ideal water
                movement throughout the media, to ensure optimal contact time for efficient
                biological filtration."
                That was what I was going by. It was added to the top layer ontop of the sponge and also at the very bottom where the carbon media sits. Carbon media was changed out a week or so ago and also removed some (not all) of the other biomax that was originally there and replaced it with some of the new biomax I bought. I also got a couple of gallons out of my tank to give the sponge a quick wash hopeing this method will ensure I dont kill any BB.

                I was expecting a really high spike like 8.0ppm of ammonia. Didn't think it only go up to 2.0. Good to know I am almost there, but I still have yet to see my nitrite spike yet. Still at 0ppm.

                Originally posted by mistahoo View Post
                Hairgrass is cool and so are micro swords, but tend to grow very slow submerged. They usually grow faster emersed or if you float them.



                Leaving your filter on cycled tank for 1.5 weeks is enough to get BB colonizing. Water actually holds little to no BB. You should've gotten some of his substrate or media. Used filter floss is usually great to grab. Put it in your tank and give it a good squeeze and swish in your tank. Some people have good luck fending off diatoms with a lights out period for about a week. I wouldn't recommend it if your plants aren't in good condition. Flourish is just micro ferts, you need macro ferts too if you want your plants to look their best. Once a week is fine. With micro ferts, I like to dose every other day or every three days.
                Thats good to know that I already have some BB! Do you think some of your root tabs will cover the macro part? Also do you think I could aviod adding nitrogen since my nirate is already 10-20ppm?
                Last edited by wesleh; 06-12-2013, 06:19 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by wesleh View Post
                  I forgot to mention when my friend added the biomax, it looks like this, link below. Will that grow BB on it?http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...AvailInUS%2FNo
                  It was on at the very bottom of the filter next to the carbon.

                  Basically ceramic rings. Does the same thing. Normally you want that before your biomax as a prefilter, but it'll work anywhere it's placed.

                  I additiontally added this biomax http://www.petco.com/product/102413/...ter-Media.aspx
                  "Biomax helps reduce ammonia and nitrite. Plus, the rings allow ideal water
                  movement throughout the media, to ensure optimal contact time for efficient
                  biological filtration."
                  That was what I was going by. It was added to the top layer ontop of the sponge and also at the very bottom where the carbon media sits. Carbon media was changed out a week or so ago and also removed some (not all) of the other biomax that was originally there and replaced it with some of the new biomax I bought. I also got a couple of gallons out of my tank to give the sponge a quick wash hopeing this method will ensure I dont kill any BB.

                  It's just to lure people in to buy it. In reality, all media does is host BB. BB is what actually reduces the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. I've been using plastic pot scrubbers for media and it works just as well. It's much cheaper too. $1 for 6. I loaded my canisters with this stuff. Washing the sponge in tank water is a good idea. I normally don't wash it in tank water and just tap because more of the BB is in the media and substrate.

                  I really was expecting a really high spike like 8.0ppm of ammonia. Didn't think it only go up to 2.0. Good to know I am almost there, but I still have yet to see my nitrite spike yet. Still at 0ppm.

                  8.0ppm is a bit exaggerated. You'd hit that number if you didn't have your filter on a cycled tank. A good indicator that will let you know your tank is cycled is when you have 0 ammonia 0 nitrite and X nitrate (x being whatever it's at). You're getting ammonia readings because of the ADA Amazonia

                  Thats good to know that I already have some BB! Do you think some of your root tabs will cover the macro part? Also do you think I could aviod adding nitrogen since my nirate is already 10-20ppm?

                  Root tabs are supplemental fertilizers. Mine has macro and micro ferts. I listed them all on the for sale thread. You want to continue water column dosing for optimal growth and coloration. With 10-20ppm you won't have to dose N or cut back dosing. When your plants start to fill in, 10-20ppm will go down to 0ppm quickly.
                  replies are in red above

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    nice tank... I'm also a planted tank/carpet person. I have javamoss carpet with some success. Just a heads up, as many people with planted tank and I have talked about the same problem regarding nutrient. At one point, when the plant mass in your tank settles, they will eat every trace of Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate in your tank. Many of us struggle to drive that Nitrate reading up because sooner or later the absent of Nitrate will cause problems like algae bloom. You must be very careful with nutrient and keep watching that Nitrate reading. Root tabs and water column dosing is a must. I like Excel too.
                    I have the patience of a goldfish....

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by mistahoo View Post
                      replies are in red above
                      I was hoping I could get away with it. I'll look into getting some dry macros. I still plan on picking up some of your root tabs though! Thanks again for your help.

                      Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by suicune View Post
                        nice tank... I'm also a planted tank/carpet person. I have javamoss carpet with some success. Just a heads up, as many people with planted tank and I have talked about the same problem regarding nutrient. At one point, when the plant mass in your tank settles, they will eat every trace of Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate in your tank. Many of us struggle to drive that Nitrate reading up because sooner or later the absent of Nitrate will cause problems like algae bloom. You must be very careful with nutrient and keep watching that Nitrate reading. Root tabs and water column dosing is a must. I like Excel too.
                        Thanks! I was actually thinking of doing that as well but with weeping moss. Could you possibly send me some pics on here or through PM? I was going to use excel until I read that it can harm my vals.

                        Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mistahoo View Post
                          If you really want to try to keep them together, I would let the RCS build up a large colony to about 40+ and then add the discus, but it'll take a few months.
                          Thats what I was thinking as well. I was going to start with a large quantity about 2-3 dozens of amano and cherries and just let the cherries establish a colony.


                          Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
                          Last edited by wesleh; 07-01-2013, 10:19 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            131329_3282774326868_1381559224_o.jpgphoto(6).jpg

                            Now the first picture is from my tank 2 months ago, the 2nd is a week ago. The problem with carpeting is that when your carpet get too thick, fish may get trapped between the glass and the carpet. Which is why I ended up ripping off the edge of the carpet like in the 2nd pictures. Pruning can be a hassle but with Java Moss, all I do is ripping trunks out from the carpet. This is also a low - medium light carpet/tank. At first I thought I can get away with dosing, but that's not the case. You can get away with CO2 by using excel but dosing nutrient is a must. Some of the more experience people told me to start dosing Nitrogen when the plants start consuming all the Nitrogen in the tank. Any planted tank will reach this point, I use root tabs and flourish, but you'll need Nitrogen. Another way is purposely overfeed or overstock the tank. In my experience, it can cause even more troubles. Even then, that doesn't guarantee that your overstocked tank will provide the plants enough Nitrogen. Then again, my tank has some nutrient hungry plants like the floaters and Wisteria. The thick Java moss carpet also consumes a lot.
                            Attached Files
                            I have the patience of a goldfish....

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by suicune View Post
                              [ATTACH=CONFIG]19961[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19962[/ATTACH]

                              Now the first picture is from my tank 2 months ago, the 2nd is a week ago. The problem with carpeting is that when your carpet get too thick, fish may get trapped between the glass and the carpet. Which is why I ended up ripping off the edge of the carpet like in the 2nd pictures. Pruning can be a hassle but with Java Moss, all I do is ripping trunks out from the carpet. This is also a low - medium light carpet/tank. At first I thought I can get away with dosing, but that's not the case. You can get away with CO2 by using excel but dosing nutrient is a must. Some of the more experience people told me to start dosing Nitrogen when the plants start consuming all the Nitrogen in the tank. Any planted tank will reach this point, I use root tabs and flourish, but you'll need Nitrogen. Another way is purposely overfeed or overstock the tank. In my experience, it can cause even more troubles. Even then, that doesn't guarantee that your overstocked tank will provide the plants enough Nitrogen. Then again, my tank has some nutrient hungry plants like the floaters and Wisteria. The thick Java moss carpet also consumes a lot.
                              That looks really nice! I dig it! What kind of plant is that in your first pic that look like really thin grass?

                              Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
                              Last edited by wesleh; 06-12-2013, 09:18 PM.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X